[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Walking Through a Thousand Years of Layered History

Journey on Hongseong's 'Hongju Cheonnyeon-gil' - Viewing a Thousand Years of History Along the Tranquil Hongju Fortress

Hongjuseong

A zelkova tree said to have been planted during the reign of King Gongmin of Goryeo

Hong Juok

Baekwolsan Sunset

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] Hongseong, Chungnam, received the name Hongju in 1018 during the Goryeo King Hyeonjong era. During the Joseon Dynasty, it was the central hub overseeing 22 counties in the Naepo region along the western coast of Chungnam. Currently, since the Chungcheongnam-do provincial office is located in Hongseong, it is not wrong to attach a millennium to Hongseong’s history. Hongseong has long been a terrain where the West Sea penetrates deep inland through waterways, resulting in an abundance of various goods. The picture of peddlers decorating a corner wall of the market represents the status of the Hongseong market at that time. There is a path where you can look back on this history of Hongseong. It is called the ‘Hongjuseong Millennium Trail.’ Walking along the 8km path, the thousand-year history of Hongseong unfolds like a panorama. It is a route that returns from the traditional market, full of the life and sorrows of the Hongju people, to the Hongju Uisa Tomb, Maebongjae, and Hongjuseong. As you encounter these warm and lively scenes one by one, you can vividly feel not only the past history of Hongseong but also its present appearance. Is that all? About 4km west of the town center, there is Baegwolsan (394m above sea level), a mountain from which you can overlook the thousand-year land. Although it is neither grand nor tall, reaching the summit offers a picturesque view of Hongseong-eup and the Cheonsuman Bay of the West Sea, opening your chest wide with a refreshing feeling.

The ‘Hongjuseong Millennium Trail’ is easily accessible. The millennium travel path begins at Goam Park, located 500m down from Hongseong Station. The Hongseong Bus Terminal is right next to Goam Park. Walking along the road from the park leads to Janggunjang Intersection. The statue of General Kim Jwa-jin, holding a large sword and pointing somewhere, exudes dignity.

Near Janggunjang Intersection is the Hongseong Traditional Market. Hongseong is a town-level area with a fairly prosperous market. Besides the traditional market, there are a permanent market and Myeongdong Street (which is filled with fashion stores targeting young people). Even the usually quiet Hongseong Traditional Market becomes packed with stalls on market days (days ending in 1 and 6). From snacks like twisted doughnuts (kkwabaegi), hotteok, and steamed buns to daily necessities, long lines form. Hongseong has long been a place overflowing with various goods due to its terrain where the West Sea penetrates deep inland through waterways.

The most eye-catching spot in the market is a blacksmith shop that has been in operation for over 100 years across three generations. The blacksmith owner sits on a chair looking out at the market street. The anvil used for hammering iron is shiny. When asked if a photo could be taken, he said yes and stood up. When told the owner would be the model, he reluctantly sat back down, saying, “I have to go to the field...” Nowadays, with less work, he also does farming. The blacksmith mainly makes simple farming tools but also produces customized products according to customers’ needs as times change.

Leaving the blacksmith shop, a 70-year-old beef head soup restaurant catches the eye. Even on a hot summer day, the skill of the owner lady who quickly serves a bowl of soup in front of the boiling cauldron adds trust to the taste of the soup.

Continuing on the path, crossing the Hongseong Stream from the market, there is the Ogari Dangganjiju at the entrance of a residential area. It is quite large at 4.7m high and is presumed to be the Dangganjiju of Mireuksa Temple from the Goryeo period. The two stone pillars protruding are called “General Chopsticks” by the people of Hongseong.

Walking toward the Hongju Uisa Tomb, the militia who rose against Japanese imperialist invasion attacked Hongju Eupseong in March 1906 but failed. After regrouping, the militia fought and won against the Japanese army in Naesan-myeon of present-day Buyeo-gun, Seocheon, Biin, Nampo, and Samsindang-ri of Hongju. Finally, on May 20, they recaptured Hongjuseong. However, due to a large-scale Japanese counterattack, they had to give up Hongjuseong. To commemorate the many militia who died in this battle, it was called the Nine Hundred Militia Tomb, and in 2001, it was upgraded to a national cultural asset and renamed Hongju Uisa Tomb.

Passing the Militia Memorial Tower, climb up the hill. It is a wide hill path where the wind passes through. The wide grassy path on the hill leads to a pine forest. Passing through the pine forest path, head toward Maebongjae. Maebongjae is a low mountain with a nice forest, referring to the pass that goes from Hongseong through Hongseong Hyanggyo to Deoksan. In the past, it was a narrow pass with a village shrine, but now the path has become lower and wider.

After passing Maebongjae, the steps soon arrive in front of the Hongjueupseong fortress wall. Hongjuseong was originally built as an earthen fortress from the late Unified Silla to early Goryeo period, then completed as a stone fortress in 1451, the first year of King Munjong of Joseon. During the Japanese colonial period, part of it was destroyed, and of the 1,772m fortress wall, only about 810m remains today.

Walking along the fortress wall that curves diagonally south past the county office’s outer wall, you can forget that this place is in the middle of the city, feeling the quiet and ancient fortress atmosphere. The fortress wall breaks off about halfway on the east side of Hongjueupseong. From here, enter inside the fortress. Inside Hongjuseong are the Hongjuseong Stele Cluster, Byeongo Anti-Japanese Militia Monument, Hongjuseong Earthen Fortress Site, and Hongjuseong History Museum.

The Hongju well and prison where criminals were confined caught the eye. During the Donghak Peasant Revolution in 1894, many Donghak followers were imprisoned here, and in 1895, during the Eulmi Hongju Militia, 23 militia leaders including Kim Bok-han were also imprisoned in Hongju prison. It is also known as the place where Won Si-jang Peter, the first martyr of Chungcheong Province, was martyred.

Opposite the Hongjuseong History Museum is Hongju Amun. Hongju Amun was the outer third gate of the Hongjuseong government office. Through Hongju Amun, two large zelkova trees can be seen. According to legend, they were planted to commemorate Hongju’s promotion to a Mok (牧) during the reign of King Gongmin of Goryeo (1351?1374), estimating their age at about 650 years.

Behind the county office is Yeohajeong, where there is also a zelkova tree. Yeohajeong was a pavilion where the Hongju magistrate rested, and a large zelkova tree stands elegantly as if protecting Yeohajeong.

Coming out from Hongju Amun onto the main road, the main gate and east gate of Hongjuseong, Joyangmun (朝陽門), is trapped in a rotary intersection, disconnected from the fortress wall. Imagine the completed appearance of Hongjuseong with the main gate connected to the fortress wall, not isolated.

Crossing the Hongseong Stream bridge leads back into the traditional market. The millennium travel path is almost complete. After a journey of about 3 to 4 hours, hunger sets in. The thought of a steaming bowl of soup naturally arises. Eating a bowl of soup at the market in a flash, then moving on to the next destination.

About 4km west of Hongseong-eup, there is a mountain ideal for viewing the thousand-year land. A merchant met at the market said it is the mountain most loved by Hongseong residents. It is Baegwolsan.

Though not grand or tall, reaching the summit of Baegwolsan offers a picturesque view of Hongseong-eup and Cheonsuman Bay of the West Sea, opening your chest wide with a refreshing feeling. Above all, it is a place where the sunset is beautiful, so visiting at sunset is a good idea. The fact that you can drive near the summit is also a great attraction. Parking the car and heading toward the summit observatory, you encounter a large rock shaped like a big dog. The sign calls it Elephant Rock. However, no matter how you look, it does not resemble an elephant.

After about a 5-minute climb, a wide-open observatory appears. To the right, the sun is setting, dyeing the West Sea red. To the left, Chungnam Provincial Office and the millennium travel path just passed are faintly visible.

Hongseong = Text and photos by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=Hongseong is close to Hongseong IC on the West Coast Expressway and Yesan Sudeoksa IC on the Dangjin-Daejeon Expressway. Trains on the Janghang Line run from Seoul Yongsan Station to Hongseong Station.

△Food=Hongseong is home to the nation’s largest cattle market and is famous for Korean beef, yuk sashimi, and beef soup. The 40-year-old Heungnam Dumplings (photo), recently featured on TV variety shows, are known for their unique texture, as the filling is mixed with vegetables instead of glass noodles. In spring, the Namdang Port shrimp and webfoot octopus festivals are well known.

△Attractions=Yongbongsan, Oseosan, Namdang Port, Jukdo, Gungri Port, General Kim Jwa-jin’s birthplace, Manhae’s birthplace, Lee Ungno Museum of Art, Hongseong, and Gwangcheon Cattle Market are among the attractions.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.