[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] The Gift of the Winter General... Walking on the Frozen Water

Inje Achimgari Valley Ice Trekking - Step by Step Becoming One with Nature

Inje Achimgari Valley, famous for summer valley trekking, becomes a sanctuary for enthusiasts who want to enjoy ice trekking in winter. Walking along the deep valley that continues in a zigzag pattern offers a charm different from that of summer.

Crampons are essential for ice trekking.

[Asia Economy, Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] Although Ipchun (立春), the solar term marking the beginning of spring, has passed, the harsh cold of winter still prevails. At times like this, how about enjoying the remaining winter by braving the biting wind? The answer is valley ice trekking. While famous for summer valley trekking in Korea, this place sees fewer visitors in winter. Therefore, it is a pristine area where concerns about COVID-19 can be somewhat eased. This is Achimgari Valley in Inje, Gangwon-do, considered one of the most remote places. It is also called the valley of seclusion. Achimgari is one of the '3 Dun (Saldun, Woldun, Daldun) and 4 Gari (Achimgari, Jeokgari, Yeongari, Myeongjigari).' It is named Achimgari because 'only enough sunlight shines briefly in the morning to till the fields and quickly fades away,' meaning it is a deeply nestled valley. Pure water from the remote area flows through the mountains, and mobile phones temporarily bid farewell to the outside world. The only sounds filling the valley are the 'crackling' noises of crampons attached to hiking boots piercing the ice. Let's head to this valley that retains the pristine natural scenery. Unlike summer valley trekking, try experiencing the unique joy of winter ice trekking, where you can endure some hardship.

When mentioning valleys in Gangwon-do, Achimgari is the first that comes to mind. This valley, overflowing with primeval natural beauty, is famous for trekking along a 15km gorge from Jokyung-dong to Bangdong-ri Galteo.

Ice trekking starts at Galteo Village (Galteo Rest Area) in Bangdong-ri, Inje-gun, where the lower stream of Achimgari Valley meets Bangtaecheon Stream. You enter the deep valley visible across Bangtaecheon.

In summer, trekking the entire section is recommended, but in winter, it is advised to take a shorter route. The distance from the lowest part of Achimgari Valley to Jokyungdong Bridge, where it meets the unpaved upper road, is about 7km. You trek upstream along the frozen valley. Especially in winter trekking, many start and end at the same point. Rather than setting a fixed destination, it is better to return to the starting point if walking becomes difficult or boring.

Carrying a backpack with warm drinks and insulating outerwear, you head to the ice kingdom. The valley, which would flow coolly in warmer seasons, is now frozen solid.

At the valley entrance, you put on crampons and step onto the ice. The strange charm lies in being able to walk where the water is too deep to even think of entering in summer.

Achimgari Valley is likened to a winding road with nine bends, harmoniously combining pools, rocks, pebble beds, and sandbanks, exuding untamed wilderness.

About 2.4km from the entrance, the mobile phone dead zone begins, continuing for approximately 3.7km. One must remember this when trekking Achimgari Valley: due to the long no-signal area, never go alone for safety.

Here and there, the valley water flows where ice has melted, so clear and calm it resembles a pristine mirror. About 4km upstream from the entrance, a huge pool appears beneath a rock cliff. Although not an official name, trekkers call it Ttukbalsso. It is the deepest pool in Achimgari Valley. There are no special markers, but it is assumed to be the deepest pool seen in the valley.

The pitch-black deep Ttukbalsso has turned into a giant ice warehouse. In summer, one might jump into the valley to cool off, but in winter, such fun is absent.

Ttukbalsso is frozen so deeply that it is hard to gauge its depth. However, since the water beneath the transparent ice is clearly visible, the thrill makes one hesitate to step on it. You go around the side and ascend the valley along the edge.

As the name Achimgari suggests, the valley is deeply nested in the mountains. During the ascent, no human presence is felt throughout the valley. It is said that hundreds of slash-and-burn farmers once lived in this valley, but all left after the 1960s Uljin-Samcheok armed communist incident.

The valley never fully reveals its interior. When the valley bends, one hopes the sky will open up, but it ends as a misconception. At the valley’s end stands another sheer gorge like a wall.

Suddenly, the rugged rocky valley transforms into a flat ice sheet. A wide area resembling a valley water playground spreads smoothly like an ice rink. Momentarily forgetting the hardships, you get engrossed in sledding. A small chair carried in the backpack becomes an excellent sled. Pushing and pulling each other with companions, you briefly return to a childlike world.

After spending some time, you continue ascending along the valley. The valley flattens, meeting a forest road and Jokyungdong Bridge, where the trekking ends. On the right side of the bridge is a small unmanned convenience store selling cup noodles, coffee, and equipped with a traditional restroom.

From here, you can continue trekking further upstream along the road, but usually, this is where people finish. For descent, you can either retrace your steps or take a route over the ridge toward Bangdong Mineral Spring. Both routes take similar time, but returning the way you came is more convenient.

In winter valleys, temperatures drop sharply after sunset. The valley wind adds to the chill, causing mercury levels to plummet. Especially in Achimgari Valley, sunlight is brief, so starting trekking late is unwise. It is best to start early in the morning and plan to return to the starting point by afternoon.

Inje = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Donghongcheon Interchange on the Gyeongchun Expressway, then take National Road 44 toward Inje and Sokcho. From Inje-eup, follow Naerincheon Stream to Hyeon-ri and Bangdong Mineral Spring. Alternatively, use Yangyang Expressway to Inje IC and head toward Bangdong Mineral Spring.

△ Food = Bangdong Makguksu near Bangtaesan Natural Recreation Forest is famous. They serve makguksu (buckwheat noodles), boiled pork slices, potato pancakes, and more, with exceptional taste. Seolpibat Village also has restaurants offering mountain vegetable set meals and pajeon (green onion pancakes).

△ Attractions = Besides Bangdong Mineral Spring, there is 'Gaein Mineral Spring' in Misan-ri, located at 1080m above sea level, the highest mineral spring in South Korea. Other experience and healing spots include Bangtaesan Natural Recreation Forest, Gombaeryeong Ecological Trail, Seolpi Village, Jindong Valley drive, Wondae-ri birch forest, and Susan-ri birch forest trail.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.