Hanbok Experience Becomes a Popular Cultural Activity
Over 2 Million Visitors Received Free Admission in Hanbok Last Year
Rising Number of Complaints About Free Admission Criteria
Online Users Say “Hanbok Standards Need to Be Clearer”

Recently, there has been growing criticism online that the criteria for free admission to Seoul's royal palaces for visitors wearing "hanbok," a sight commonly seen around the palaces, are ambiguous. In particular, some rental hanbok are excessively ornate or feature designs blended with those of other countries, prompting criticism that these are "hanbok of indeterminate nationality."


On May 8, Yonhap News focused on the confusion experienced by visitors regarding "what can be considered hanbok," as the Cultural Heritage Administration operates a system allowing free admission to the four major palaces, Jongmyo Shrine, and Joseon Royal Tombs for those wearing hanbok.

Foreign tourists dressed in hanbok are walking through the Seochon neighborhood near Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. Photo by Jo Jongjun

Foreign tourists dressed in hanbok are walking through the Seochon neighborhood near Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. Photo by Jo Jongjun

View original image

Since 2013, the Cultural Heritage Administration has provided free admission to the four major palaces, Jongmyo Shrine, and Joseon Royal Tombs for visitors wearing hanbok. The designated sites include the four major palaces—Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, and Deoksugung—along with Jongmyo Shrine, the Seoul royal tombs (Heonleung, Illeung, Seolleung, Jeongneung, Taereung, Gangneung, Uireung), Seooreung and Seosamneung in Goyang, Jangneung in Gimpo, Yungneung and Geonneung in Hwaseong, Yeongneung in Yeoju, and Jangneung in Yeongwol. When the system was first introduced, the number of annual free-admission visitors wearing hanbok was about 300,000 to 400,000, but last year it exceeded 2 million. This is attributed to the increase in palace tourism and the growing popularity of hanbok experiences as a leisure activity among young people and foreign tourists.

The Criteria for Free Admission: Jeogori with Skirt or Pants

The Cultural Heritage Administration recognizes not only traditional hanbok but also modern hanbok, in line with the policy's aim to popularize and globalize hanbok. However, the core requirement is clear: an outfit must consist of both a top and a bottom, such as jeogori with a skirt or jeogori with pants. A representative from the Cultural Heritage Administration explained, "While the overall number of palace and tomb visitors has increased, free admission for those wearing hanbok has become especially popular. For younger people, wearing hanbok has become a fun and cultural experience." Despite this, questions and complaints frequently appear online, such as "Why aren’t modern hanbok allowed?", "Are women’s pants hanbok not eligible for free admission?", and "I was denied entry even though I wore a cheollik dress."


Guidelines for Free Admission for Hanbok Wearers. Cultural Heritage Administration, Palace and Royal Tombs Headquarters

Guidelines for Free Admission for Hanbok Wearers. Cultural Heritage Administration, Palace and Royal Tombs Headquarters

View original image

The most explicit criterion for hanbok eligible for free admission is whether both top and bottom pieces are worn. According to the Palace and Royal Tombs Headquarters’ guidelines, both traditional and modern hanbok are accepted. However, the top must be a jeogori, and the bottom must be a skirt or pants. Therefore, wearing only a jeogori with jeans, or pairing a hanbok skirt with a regular T-shirt, may result in exclusion from free admission. Even if hanbok fabric is used or elements such as the hanbok collar or goreum are included, it is difficult to have the outfit recognized as hanbok if it does not follow the basic structure of hanbok.


The jeogori must retain the overlapping collar style. A goreum is not strictly required, and there are no restrictions on the way it is tied. Skirts can be either with or without fastenings. A waist skirt starting at the waist can be accepted as long as the jeogori extends down to the waist. Pants should generally follow the form of traditional "sapok" pants. Even if the waist is closed with a zipper or ankle ties are absent, as long as the overall shape is that of traditional pants, the outfit can be considered hanbok.


Why Is the Cheollik Dress Controversial? “Jeogori and Skirt Must Be Separate”

Popular items such as the gonryongpo, dopo, and cheollik, seen in dramas and available for rent at tourist spots, are also sources of confusion. The most controversial recently is the cheollik dress. The cheollik was originally an outer garment worn by men in the Joseon Dynasty. Today, some clothing brands reinterpret it as a dress for women. Since these often feature the hanbok collar, goreum, and pleated skirt, visitors may easily mistake them for hanbok.


Foreign tourists dressed in hanbok are sightseeing at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. Photo by Jo Yongjun

Foreign tourists dressed in hanbok are sightseeing at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. Photo by Jo Yongjun

View original image

However, under the criteria for free admission, cheollik dresses may not be accepted. The Cultural Heritage Administration’s guidelines state that for one-piece hanbok-style dresses, “Hanbok is recognized only when a jeogori with an overlapping collar and a separate skirt are worn.” In other words, simply wearing a hanbok-inspired dress is not sufficient; the composition of jeogori and skirt must be identifiable. As a result, complaints continue online that “even though the fabric, collar, and goreum are present, it’s not accepted.” Authorities, on the other hand, argue that if the definition of hanbok is expanded too much, the purpose of the free admission policy may be undermined.


The Cultural Heritage Administration also considers it difficult to recognize these garments as hanbok if worn alone. Gonryongpo, dopo, and cheollik are fundamentally outer garments. An official from the agency explained, “These are considered outerwear, so wearing only the outer garment over underwear is not appropriate.” Therefore, if a gonryongpo or dopo is worn over regular clothing, or if only a cheollik is worn over a T-shirt and pants, free admission may be denied. Costumes resembling grim reapers or other period dramas that do not fit the basic structure of hanbok or the dignity of the palace may also be restricted from free admission.


Free admission may be refused if the jeogori lacks an overlapping collar like a vest, or is so short that the chest line is exposed. The Palace and Royal Tombs Headquarters emphasizes “wearing hanbok befitting the dignity of the palace” as a common criterion. Ultimately, the essence of free admission is not “hanbok-style” but “the basic structure of hanbok.” The agency explains that more important than the fabric or decoration are the composition of jeogori with skirt or pants, the overlapping collar, and dignity suitable for the palace setting.

Men Can Wear Skirts for Free Admission... Gender Criteria Abolished

The gender-based criteria for wearing hanbok have been relaxed. In the past, free admission was sometimes denied if men wore women’s hanbok or women wore men’s hanbok. However, after the National Human Rights Commission of Korea pointed out the potential for human rights violations and recommended improvements, since July 2019, wearing hanbok of another gender has been permitted for free admission. Therefore, as long as the basic structure and form of hanbok are maintained, men wearing skirt hanbok or women wearing pants hanbok are now eligible for free admission.


Some visitors, however, point out that the criteria are not applied consistently on site. There are reports online of people in similar attire being admitted while others are turned away. In particular, stricter standards are often applied to modern or everyday hanbok worn by locals, while fusion hanbok, mainly rented by foreign tourists, seem to pass more easily, prompting complaints.

A children's hanbok shop inside Gwangjang Market, Jongno-gu, Seoul, displaying colorful hanboks. Photo by Jinhyung Kang

A children's hanbok shop inside Gwangjang Market, Jongno-gu, Seoul, displaying colorful hanboks. Photo by Jinhyung Kang

View original image

The government is also aware of this issue. A representative from the Cultural Heritage Administration explained, “Hanbok rental shops prefer materials that are easy to manage, and foreign tourists often seek out more extravagant designs, which has contributed to this trend. Although some view this negatively, there are also positive perspectives, so we are watching the situation.” A Palace and Royal Tombs Headquarters official also commented, “There is much concern over the prevalence of hanbok of indeterminate nationality, but we are cautious as overly strict regulation could adversely affect small business owners.”



Finally, the Palace and Royal Tombs Headquarters emphasized, “Please remember that the purpose of wearing hanbok should not be solely for free admission, but to promote the value of hanbok. This policy was intended to encourage and guide people to wear hanbok correctly, so we ask that you follow traditional practices as much as possible.”


This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.

© The Asia Business Daily(www.asiae.co.kr). All rights reserved.

Today’s Briefing