[Digging Travel] The Agony of the Jeonnamu Forest Path... Sending It Off at Chaeseokgang

⑪Tranquil Scenery Filled Jeonbuk Buan
National Treasure Designated Bell, Fir Tree Forest Path Attraction 'Naesosa'
Layered Terrain Creates the Spectacular Scenery of Chaeseokgang

"Through my connection with artisan Han Jung-seo, I was captivated by the outstanding casting techniques and the beauty of the patterns on the Goryeo Bronze Bell, and as a fellow bronze bell expert, I was able to experience a new turning point in my life."

Snow-covered scenery of Naesosa Temple in Jinseo-myeon, Buan-gun, Jeollabuk-do.
[Photo by Jeollabuk-do]

On the 9th, at the Naesosa Temple in Jinseo-myeon, Buan-gun, Jeonbuk, during the ceremony commemorating the elevation of the Naesosa Goryeo Bronze Bell to National Treasure status, Choi Eung-cheon, Commissioner of the Cultural Heritage Administration, spoke about his connection with Han Jung-seo, the artisan who made the Naesosa Bronze Bell. He introduced that while attending graduate school at Hongik University, majoring in metal crafts, he prepared a master's thesis on bronze drums and came to know artisan Han Jung-seo during that process. The craftsmanship of the artisan from a thousand years ago, which captivated a young man's heart, once again drew public attention and displayed its profound beauty at the National Treasure elevation ceremony. As much as the elegance of the bronze bell, Naesosa is also known among travelers as one of the representative spots called a 'healing space.'

Goryeo Bronze Bell of Naesosa Temple, designated as a National Treasure. [Image source=Yonhap News]

"A Place Where Everyone is Revived" The Healing Fir Forest Path of 'Naesosa'

Originally, Naesosa Temple was established in 633 AD (the 34th year of King Mu of Baekje) by the monks Hyegu and Duta. The temple's original name was Soraesa (蘇來寺). The name Sorae (蘇來), which carries the vow "May everyone who comes here be revived," is derived from a passage in the Neunggagyeong, named after Neungga Mountain where the temple is located. Although the name changed to Naesosa after the 18th century, the footsteps of travelers, including Buddhists weary of the world, still gather here earnestly wishing for revival.

Naesosa's reputation as a healing space owes much to the approximately 500-meter-long fir forest stretching from the Iljumun Gate to the Daeungjeon Hall. After walking through the fir forest and passing the Cheonwangmun Gate and crossing a narrow bridge, the path changes to cherry blossom trees and maple trees. The tranquil mountain temple entrance path, transitioning from fir to cherry and maple trees, offers visitors who come to Naesosa throughout the year a variety of seasonal beauties.

Snow-covered scenery of Naesosa Fir Tree Road.
[Photo by Naesosa]

The Naesosa fir forest path is counted among the 'Three Great Fir Forest Paths in Korea,' along with the fir forest paths at Woljeongsa Temple in Odaesan, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do, and the Gwangneung Arboretum forest path in Pocheon-si, Gyeonggi-do. It is said that the fir forest here was first planted in 1633 (the 11th year of King Injo of Joseon) by the monk Cheongmin Seonsa when rebuilding the temple destroyed during the Japanese invasions of Korea (Imjin War), as the surroundings were too barren. The dense fir trees, over 30 meters tall, emit phytoncides, and just walking through the forest allows one to momentarily set aside worries and anxieties and enjoy a moment of peace.

Sunset at Chaeseokgang. The terrain and sea scenery, resembling tens of thousands of books stacked layer upon layer, and the distant setting sun create a natural masterpiece that can only be experienced here.
[Photo by Korea Tourism Organization]

Coastal Scenery Layered by Time: 'Chaeseokgang'

After your body and mind have been 'revived' in the forest, it is time to visit Buan's famous Chaeseokgang. Named after the Chinese Chaiseji (采石磯), where the Tang Dynasty poet Li Taibai (Li Bai) composed poetry and enjoyed drinking, Chaeseokgang is located near Gyeokpo Port on a coastal cliff. Although the name includes 'gang' (river), it is often mistaken for a river like the Han River or Seomjin River, but in reality, it refers to a coastal cliff area facing the sea.

The terrain, resembling a stack of tens of thousands of books, was formed by the erosion of sedimentary layers deposited during the Cretaceous period (about 70 million years ago) on a basement of Precambrian (approximately 4.6 billion to 541 million years ago) granite and gneiss by seawater, creating layered strata. The depth of the sunset here, matching the beauty of the terrain shaped by time, offers a special view incomparable to any other sunset.

About 3 km north along the Jeokbyeokgang coastal road stands Suseongdang, which has guarded this place for many years, overlooking the Byeonsan Peninsula. This is a shrine dedicated to Gaeyang Halmi, the sea goddess who protects the Chil-san Sea, designated as Local Tangible Cultural Property No. 58. The Gaeyang Halmi legend is reminiscent of the 'Strong Woman Gangnam-soon.' Gaeyang Halmi, who governed the fortunes and misfortunes of the West Sea Chil-san Sea area, was a sea goddess so tall she rose above the clouds, wearing wooden clogs, traversing the West Sea, filling in deep places and digging out shallow spots to level the sea floor.

One day, while working at sea as usual, Gaeyang Halmi's foot got stuck in the 'Yeorungae' in front of Gomsu Bay, wetting her skirt. Angry, she filled her skirt with stones and filled in 'Yeorungae.' Despite this, the water there remains deep, and among the locals of Buan, there is a proverb that says, "The depth is like the Gomsu pond."

A gut ritual is taking place at Suseongdang (Local Cultural Property No. 58), located midway along the Byeonsanbando coastal trail. This site is associated with the legend of Gaeyang Halmi, the sea deity, and excavation results have confirmed that rituals have been conducted here since before the Proto-Three Kingdoms period.
[Photo by Buan-gun]

The Origin of the 'Strong Woman' and the Gaeyang Halmi Legend at Suseongdang

Gaeyang Halmi, who is said to bring fertility and abundance, had eight daughters. She sent each daughter to shrines in Wido, Gomsu, Gochang Yeongsindang, Donji, Gyewhado, Saepo, Daebeolli, and kept the youngest daughter with herself at Suseongdang. Because of this, locals sometimes call this shrine 'Gunangsa (九娘祠).' The National Jeonju Museum conducted an excavation around Suseongdang in the 1990s, and analysis of the artifacts revealed that this site had been a ritual place for maritime ceremonies since the Proto-Three Kingdoms period (2nd century BC to 3rd century AD).

Below Suseongdang is a dense bamboo grove, which was recorded during the Joseon Dynasty as a government-managed bamboo field for arrows. Bamboo (Sinudae) used for making arrows was cut and stored in a warehouse before being transported to Hanyang (Seoul). Because of this, the area was called Daemakgol (竹幕洞), meaning 'village with a bamboo arrow storage shed.'

The scenery of Jikso Falls, ranked as the 2nd among the 8 scenic spots of Byeonsan. ⓒ Lee Yeon-jae [Photo by Buan County Office]

Byeonsan's Treasure Embracing a Dragon: 'Jikso Waterfall'

Having come to Buan, you cannot miss Byeonsan's treasure, Jikso Waterfall. Designated as a national geosite on the West Coast National Geopark, Jikso Waterfall is one of the top scenic spots among the eight views of Byeonsan. The refreshing water plunging vertically from a 30-meter-high rock offers a thrilling sensation just by watching. The name Jikso (直沼) comes from the water falling directly into the pond below.

Hidden deep inland like a treasure, this area is also called 'Sogeumgang' (Little Geumgang). Jikso Waterfall is the second of the Bongnae Gugok (Bongnae Nine Valleys), a series of nine mysterious river landscapes stretching about 20 km in Naebyeonsan. From upstream, the valleys are: 1st Daeso, 2nd Jikso Waterfall, 3rd Bunokdam, 4th Seonnyeotang, 5th Bongnae Valley; the 6th to 9th valleys were submerged after the completion of Buan Dam in 1996 and are no longer visible.

Below Jikso Waterfall is the Dragon Pool. The legend of a dragon living here is matched by the harmonious combination of dense trees and rocky cliffs, creating a mysterious and beautiful landscape. The trail from the entrance has a gentle slope, making it accessible for people of all ages. The trail is about 2.3 km long, and visitors can enjoy the forest scenery changing colors with the seasons and observe various flora and fauna.

Seuljine Bakery, located opposite Gomso Salt Farm. Seuljine Steamed Buns, which opened in the town center in 2000, has relocated and expanded to Gomso Salt Farm, establishing itself as a local landmark.
[Photo by Seuljine Bakery]

'Seulji's Bakery': Revitalizing the Region and Emerging as a Landmark of Gomsu Port

Buan has long been famous for its salted seafood and salt, and Gomsu Port is well known for its salt fields. Recently, visitors to the Gomsu salt fields have been increasing, but interestingly, they are not buying salt or salted seafood; instead, they all purchase bread packed in paper bags. Seulji's Bakery, located opposite the Gomsu Salt Fields with its black roof and sea breeze, opened in 2017. Originally, it was a famous steamed bun shop in Buan-eup. In 2000, CEO Kim Gap-cheol started making and selling steamed buns under the name of his second daughter, Seulji, and 'Seulji's Steamed Buns' became a trademark. They gained fame by patenting the colorful steamed buns.

As the popularity of the steamed buns grew and customers flocked from all over the country, the health of the CEO's wife, who worked tirelessly every day, began to deteriorate. Kim asked his second daughter, who was working in Seoul, to help run the bakery. Initially, the daughter refused, but after completing her studies in business administration at Chung-Ang University Graduate School, she returned to her hometown determined to run the business properly. She changed the name from Seulji's Steamed Buns to Seulji's Bakery and relocated from the town center to a spacious site next to the Gomsu Salt Fields.

The daughter's decision proved effective. Opening the bakery in a place with more tourists than local residents attracted visitors, and within three years of opening the new building at Gomsu Port, it became a landmark of Buan. Now, 300,000 to 400,000 customers visit annually. The bakery uses about 30 tons of red beans, 30 tons of flour, and 1 ton of glutinous rice annually, mostly sourced from Buan and nearby areas, creating a virtuous cycle where increased bakery sales directly boost local farmers' incomes.

Although the colorful steamed buns remain the signature product, various new products targeting younger customers are also being developed. On the day of the visit, the colorful steamed buns were already sold out. Instead, steamed red bean chestnut buns made with domestic chestnuts, Korean wheat, and red beans, injeolmi bread, and cream cheese steamed buns were available to ease the disappointment. On weekends and holidays, travelers visiting Buan come here, and it has become a must-visit spot not only for locals but also for people from neighboring cities along the Nadeuritgil trail. Riding on this success, CEO Kim Seulji was elected as the first female provincial councilor from Buan through proportional representation in the 2022 local elections and is now focusing on legislative activities, having stepped away from the bakery.

Directions

Naesosa Temple
By car: Exit the Seohaean Expressway at Julpo Interchange, turn left at Boan Intersection (Yeongjeon Checkpoint), pass Gomsu, and you will find the Naesosa parking lot. From Honam Expressway, exit at Jeongeup Interchange, drive on the national road towards Gimje and Buan, passing Gobu, Julpo, and Boan Intersection (Yeongjeon Checkpoint).
By public transport: Take an express bus from Seoul Gangnam Express Bus Terminal on the Honam Line or Dong Seoul Terminal to Buan-eup, transfer to the 300 county bus bound for Naesosa, and get off at the final stop, Naesosa entrance. City buses run every 30 minutes from 6 AM to 8:30 PM in Buan-eup, taking about 50 minutes.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.