[Jo Yongjun's Journey] A Steep Cliff, Purple Beauty Blooming Toward the Sky

Journey to Find Donggang Halmi Flower Along the Donggang River in Pyeongchang and Jeongseon, Gangwon-do

The Donggang Halmi flower, which grows only in Donggang, is the world's only endemic species. It shows strong vitality on steep rocky cliffs and displays a bright purple beauty.

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] It stands upright, poking its head out from the sheer cliff crevices (called "ppyeongdae" in the Gangwon-do dialect). Even in this harsh place, it blooms with strong vitality, showing off its beauty. The Donggang Halmi Flower, the world's only endemic species found only in the Donggang basin of Gangwon-do, has fully bloomed. The purple Halmi Flower harmonizes with the breathtaking scenery of the winding Donggang River, heralding the arrival of spring. Unlike the commonly seen Halmi Flowers in local hillsides, which have bent stems, the Donggang Halmi Flower stands tall and straight toward the sky. This flower, which shows strong vitality, is highly valued among wildflowers. I met this precious spring guest last week. It was proudly displaying its bright purple beauty on the cliffs along the Donggang River, standing upright as ever.

The Donggang River, flowing through Jeongseon, Yeongwol, and Pyeongchang in Gangwon-do, is a river with outstanding scenery. Because the river bends wrap around vertical cliffs, it rarely allows paths along the water, preserving the remote landscape. Along this magnificent scenery and rapids, the Donggang Halmi Flower gently peeks out.

In the small mountain villages of Mitan-myeon in Pyeongchang and Gyulam-ri in Jeongseon, this time of year is filled with a jewel-like floral fragrance. The Donggang Halmi Flower, peeking out from cliff crevices, proudly opens the spring of Donggang with its noble posture.

Heading to Munhui Village in the remote mountain area of Mitan-myeon. After first meeting the flower 11 years ago and then losing touch, I was excited and curious about its current status as I set out toward Donggang. The reason for choosing this place as the destination is that the flower blooms and fades earlier here than in nearby Jeongseon or Yeongwol. By the time this article is published, the Donggang Halmi Flower will have passed its peak. This is a measure taken due to COVID-19. It is both to inform readers of the spring news along Donggang and to hope that people do not visit yet. Travelers wishing to see the Donggang Halmi Flower should first enjoy its purple beauty through this article and visit next spring after the COVID-19 pandemic ends.

The first place where the Donggang Halmi Flower was discovered was Gyulam Village in Jeongseon. The huge vertical cliffs, called "ppyeongdae" by locals, are the natural habitat of the Donggang Halmi Flower. However, this place suffers every year from the influx of photographers and tourists from all over the country. In contrast, Munhui Village, which lies around a bend in Donggang, is less known and better preserved.

Passing through Munhui Village and following the riverside, there is a signboard indicating the "Donggang Halmi Flower Habitat." Next to it, a boat route leads gently to Baekryong Cave, cutting through the waterway.

Heading toward the sheer cliffs along Donggang. Although the cliffs seem ready to collapse, they are not intimidating. This is probably due to the relaxed and warm nature of Donggang. Purple and reddish spots spread across the cliffs, where life is growing.

The sight of the Donggang Halmi Flower guarding its place, unchanged from when I first met it, was enchanting. It is not a flashy brilliance but a sudden sparkle of beauty in the rock crevices. It is a flower whose lingering image remains for a long time.

Though named Halmi Flower (Grandmother Flower), it is not at all like a grandmother flower but rather a delicate and beautiful maiden, shy like a new bride. The purple and reddish-purple flowers shine brightly in the afternoon spring light, standing proudly toward the sky.

This flower, which had not received much attention, gained recognition in 1997. Photographer Kim Jeong-myeong, who was taking ecological photos while going upstream along Donggang, happened to see small flowers struggling to cling to the limestone cliffs in Gyulam-ri and took pictures.

The way it roots in narrow cracks between cliffs or in soil dust accumulated on the cliffs and lives tenaciously likely touched the photographer’s heart, resembling human resilience. Later, in 2000, Dr. Lee Young-no of the Korea Plant Research Institute named it "Donggang," giving birth to the Donggang Halmi Flower.

The Donggang Halmi Flower differs significantly from existing Halmi Flowers in habitat, flower color, and blooming posture. Especially unlike the usual Halmi Flowers that bow their heads, this flower roots in sheer, bizarre rock formations and blooms upright toward the sky, embodying mystery itself.

The Donggang Halmi Flower is a Korean native wildflower growing in limestone rock crevices around Donggang in Jeongseon, Yeongwol, and Pyeongchang. It blooms from late March to early April. Although it lives in Gangwon-do, where spring arrives late, it reliably blooms by early April, which is remarkable.

The Donggang Halmi Flower is a perennial herb of the Ranunculaceae family, producing about 15cm purple flowers and covered with many white hairs. Its leaves are pinnately compound leaves growing from the root, consisting of 7 to 8 small leaflets.

Village residents are concerned about damage as more people come to see the "Donggang Halmi Flower" due to its growing reputation for beauty. There is a vague sadness about the increased human impact and damage to the surrounding area from visitors moving to see the flowers.

A resident of Munhui Village said, "The Donggang Halmi Flower, growing on harsh cliffs, is a jewel-like flower planted and nurtured by nature. Both villagers and visitors must preserve it well."

Our flower, familiar just by name, colors Donggang red, and as the sun sets over the western mountains, the Donggang Halmi Flower slowly closes its fully opened petals. Visitors retrace their steps one by one, disappearing into the sunset. The lingering sadness holds back their footsteps more than the joy of this splendid encounter.

If you have time, it is good to climb the hiking trail behind Munhui Village to the Chiljokryeong Observatory on Baegunsan Mountain. From the observatory, the winding waters of Donggang come into a refreshing view at a glance. The round trip to Chiljokryeong takes about 3 hours.

Also, Munhui Village is home to Baekryong Cave, designated as Natural Monument No. 260. It is a 1.8 km long natural limestone cave, with the entrance located 15 meters above the Donggang water surface. It is Korea’s first experiential cave. Equipped with exploration gear and accompanied by a guide, visitors can crawl low, walk like a duck, and pass through small holes to admire fascinating cave formations such as stalactites, stalagmites, and cave shields.

Pyeongchang and Jeongseon = Written and photographed by Jo Yong-jun, travel specialist reporter jun21@

◇Travel Notes

▲Getting there=Exit Saemal IC on the Yeongdong Expressway, pass through Pyeongchang-eup, and after leaving Mitan-myeon town, you will soon see the sign for Munhui Village. It is about 10 km from there.

▲Food=This is the home of trout. Using the clear, cold water of Giwacheon Stream, trout are farmed with firm texture and good taste. You can eat the bright red trout sashimi as is or mix it with various vegetables and soybean powder.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.