[Walking Through Seoul] Seoul, the Convenience Store City: Seeking Answers in Madrid and Paris

Traditional Markets Transform into Food Alleys
"Partial Food Deserts" Lower Quality of Life
Madrid Runs 46 Specialty Food Markets
Paris Markets Include Libraries and Gyms

Robert Fouser, Former Professor at Seoul National University

Last spring, I took a walk in Ansan Urban Nature Park with a few people. After the walk, we stopped by a traditional market and enjoyed some Makgeolli. We talked about how there seemed to be fewer food stalls in the market than before, while the number of places where people could drink alcohol had increased. The conversation turned to how other markets were experiencing similar changes. Most people said they lived in apartments and did their grocery shopping at large supermarkets. We concluded that traditional markets were evolving more into "food alleys" as a survival strategy, rather than functioning as markets in the traditional sense, and then moved on to the next topic.

The following day, I did a bit of light shopping at a supermarket in the shopping arcade of an apartment complex near my accommodation in Bomun-dong. The arcade was relatively new, and the supermarket was clean and bright. However, the selection of fresh fruits and vegetables was quite limited. A few days later, I visited a chain supermarket in the commercial area of an officetel building, and it too had few fresh food options. Instead, there were plenty of processed foods like instant noodles. As a visitor to Seoul, I often ate out and did not mind much, but from a resident's perspective, it could easily feel like a "partial food desert."

A "food desert" refers to an area where it is difficult to purchase food on a daily basis due to the lack of large supermarkets, grocery stores, or food specialty shops. This issue is even more prevalent outside of cities than within them. In 2010, it was pointed out that Detroit in the United States, which had experienced population decline and economic hardship, was essentially a food desert due to the scarcity of supermarkets throughout the city. In food deserts, people are forced to either do their grocery shopping at small convenience stores that mainly sell expensive processed foods, or travel long distances to find a supermarket. Although the situation began to improve at the end of 2010, Detroit remains a city where grocery shopping is difficult.

So far, there does not appear to be a food desert in Seoul as severe as Detroit’s. There is Gyeongdong Market, which is famous for wild greens and vegetables, and large supermarkets also offer a wide selection of fresh foods. The high population density means there is generally strong demand for large supermarkets, smaller shops, and restaurants. The fact that traditional markets are transforming into food alleys probably reflects Seoul’s strong latent demand for food. Nevertheless, in terms of food accessibility, Seoul can still be considered a "partial food desert" compared to other major cities in developed countries. There are three main reasons for this.

First, outside of apartment complexes, it is difficult to find large supermarkets or regular grocery stores. Redeveloped areas, while not as extreme as Detroit, are particularly inconvenient for grocery shopping. In the past, almost every neighborhood had a traditional market, but as customers dwindled, most of these disappeared. With no demand, it is also difficult for these markets to convert into food alleys. Bakeries, fruit shops, and rice cake mills, which were once easily found in any neighborhood, have mostly closed down. In older residential areas close to apartment complexes, like Bomun-dong, people can use the large supermarkets and grocery stores in the shopping arcades, but in other areas, most residents purchase food at convenience stores. Since convenience stores have limited fresh food and higher prices, these areas are facing a situation similar to Detroit.

A neighborhood supermarket located in a residential area. It has become increasingly difficult to find such small-scale supermarkets in downtown Seoul. The Asia Business Daily DB

Second, there are few food specialty shops. A food specialty shop is a store that sells specific ingredients or food items. The now-vanished neighborhood bakery is a prime example, but it is not the only one. In the past, not only traditional markets but also butcher shops, greengrocers, fish shops, tofu shops, and stores selling homemade soy sauce or sesame oil could be easily found on the streets. There were even "Goblin Markets" that sold American peanut butter and jam. Because these shops competed with each other, built close relationships with regular customers, and specialized their offerings, consumers had a much wider range of choices than at large supermarkets. With the advent of large supermarkets and the easing of import restrictions, these specialty shops have gradually disappeared.

Third, farmer’s markets have declined. In the era when people mainly shopped at traditional markets, fresh food was usually purchased at the market. Food trucks selling fresh vegetables, fruits, and fish were also common. As traditional markets have weakened and food trucks have become less frequent, it has become harder to buy fresh food. Farmer’s markets have sometimes filled the gap, but these are often held as special events in busy districts on weekends and are not easily accessible on a daily basis. Still, since these farmer’s markets combine the advantages of traditional markets and food trucks, they can help alleviate the food desert problem to some extent.

To address Seoul’s food desert issue, it is worthwhile to look at the experiences of other major cities in developed countries. First, consider the permanent markets in Madrid, the capital of Spain. The city operates 46 markets across Madrid, all housed in city-owned buildings, bringing together various food specialty shops. Because the city runs the markets, rent is low and merchants can operate their businesses stably. Although some of these permanent markets have recently added tapas bars and wine bars, sparking criticism that they are becoming "tourist attractions," they continue to fulfill their core function of supplying essential food to citizens.

As part of efforts to revitalize the markets, the city has also introduced public facilities such as libraries, swimming pools, and gyms inside market buildings to increase customer visits. Since Madrid is almost the same size as Seoul, if Seoul had 46 public market buildings, it could nearly solve the food desert problem.

Paris, France, operates 80 rotating open-air markets regularly, rather than permanent buildings. The city manages the spaces and the merchants’ stalls. Some markets focus mainly on fresh food, while others sell flowers and various products from producers. There are also large comprehensive markets. Since there are shops selling vegetables and fruits brought directly from farms, Parisians can easily buy fresh food at these markets. With no burden of building maintenance, the city can operate more markets. If Seoul were to operate 80 regular rotating open-air markets, it would greatly help residents who have difficulty accessing fresh food.

Seoul is renowned worldwide for its convenient transportation and for being ahead of other cities in many respects. This has been made possible by public investment. Food is closely related to residents’ health and quality of life. I sincerely hope that the Seoul Metropolitan Government will boldly support the diversification of food markets, as seen in Madrid and Paris. We must not allow a future where all markets and shops disappear and buying food exclusively through delivery becomes the norm.

Robert Fouser, former professor at Seoul National University

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.