Amorepacific Develops Next-Generation Cosmetic Delivery System, Enhances Active Ingredient Efficacy

Selected as the Cover Paper in an International Nanoscience Journal

Joint Industry-Academia Research with KAIST

Development of Ultra-Small, Highly Stable 20nm Nano Carriers

Amorepacific announced on May 12 that it has developed a next-generation cosmetic delivery system utilizing nanotechnology.

Amorepacific logo. Courtesy of Amorepacific

The results of a research collaboration with Professor Choi Siyoung’s team at KAIST were selected as the cover paper for the May issue (Vol 20, Issue 17) of the international journal ACS Nano, which specializes in nanoscience.

The company explained that this study marks a significant advancement in technology for more effectively delivering cosmetic ingredients to the skin. The joint research team succeeded in reducing the size of lipid-based carriers to approximately 20 nanometers (nm), significantly smaller than existing carriers, while also achieving a highly stable structure that is resistant to collapse. This ultra-stable 20nm nano-carrier technology, currently being applied to IOPE and Primera products, has been named ‘Lipo3Ex’.

In general, the smaller the carrier for cosmetic ingredients, the more advantageous it is for delivering efficacy, but there is a limitation in maintaining structural stability. In particular, ultra-small carriers measuring less than 50 nanometers (nm) are prone to structural collapse in response to even slight changes in temperature or pH, making them difficult to apply to products. The Amorepacific R&I Center addressed this issue by focusing on triterpenoids, plant-derived ingredients. Through the research, it was confirmed that triterpenoids naturally maintain the structure of the carrier and enhance molecular bonding, thereby increasing stability. As a result, the researchers were able to achieve both ‘ultra-small size’ and ‘structural stability’ of the carriers, which had previously been difficult to accomplish simultaneously.

Next-generation Nano Cosmetic Delivery Technology by Amorepacific Selected as Cover Paper for ACS Nano May Issue. Provided by Amorepacific

This technology demonstrated, in actual human skin experiments, that it diffuses evenly into the deeper layers of the skin compared to conventional carriers, thereby improving the delivery efficiency of active ingredients. This means that the effective cosmetic ingredients are delivered uniformly throughout the skin, not limited to specific areas, resulting in a more consistent and stable effect, and offering the potential for overall improvement in skin condition during real-world use.

The study also employed advanced analytical techniques such as cryo-electron microscopy, X-ray scattering analysis, and molecular dynamics simulations to precisely verify the formation and stability of the nano-structure at the molecular level. This has established a foundation for cosmetic delivery technologies to be designed based on scientific evidence, moving beyond sensory or empirical approaches.

Seo Byunghwi, Chief Technology Officer (CTO) and Head of the R&I Center at Amorepacific, stated, “The significance of this research lies in the fact that delivery technology—an essential factor in translating the potential of ingredients into actual efficacy in cosmetics, especially skincare products—has been combined with nanoscience research to suggest new technological possibilities. We expect this to serve as an important foundation for developing next-generation skincare solutions.”

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