"Only Know Ichiran? Remember the Four Greats"...How to Become a Japanese Ramen Expert [Sunday Japan Culture]

Japan’s Diverse 'XX-kei' Ramen Styles
Carrying On the Taste of the Origin
From Iekei to Jiro-kei and More

If there is one food you must try when traveling in Japan, it has to be ramen. In particular, "Ichiran," where you can adjust the spice level to your liking, is probably the most famous ramen franchise among Koreans. In reality, though, there are many different types of ramen in Japan beyond Ichiran. Much like how Koreans differentiate between the main line and offshoots of Pyongyang cold noodle restaurants, Japanese ramen is also categorized by which shop's tradition it follows. They attach the Chinese character "kei (系)" to describe these lineages, calling them "XX-kei" ramen. Once you learn to distinguish these lineages, you can consider yourself quite knowledgeable about ramen. This week, we break down some of Japan's most famous ramen lineages.

'Ie-kei' ramen originates from Yokohama, Japan, home of Yoshimuraya ramen. Yoshimuraya X.

How Are Ramen Lineages Decided?

Originally, the principle is that ramen shops which inherit the taste of a particular famous shop are called "XX-kei ramen." It means they're carrying on the original flavor from where it all started. For example, "Jiro-kei" ramen, known for its large portions, originates from "Ramen Jiro." If a shop follows Ramen Jiro's style and serves similar ramen, it is considered "Jiro-kei."

Of course, there are exceptions. Sometimes, unique cooking methods or regional characteristics are used to define a "kei." For instance, ramen with a broth simmered so long that it turns thick like soup is classified as "Doro-kei." The name comes from the Japanese word "dorodoro," meaning "thick" or "viscous." There are also ramen with strong regional flavors, such as "Kumamoto-kei" or "Hokkaido-kei." Ramen enthusiasts even go so far as to differentiate sub-branches within these lineages.

Just Remember the Four Major Ramen Lineages

The most prominent of the "XX-kei" ramen lineages is the "Ie-kei (家系)" variety. The character "Ie (家)" means "house," and the name comes from the last character of "Yoshimuraya (吉村家)," a ramen shop that opened in Yokohama in 1974—the origin of this style.

The defining feature of Ie-kei ramen is spinach as a topping. The noodles are also relatively thick. The broth is a tonkotsu stock made from chicken and pork bones, familiar to many Koreans. Another characteristic is that you can customize your bowl to suit your taste—deciding how firm you want your noodles, how rich you want the broth, and the amount of oil. If you find a ramen shop that serves tonkotsu ramen, tops it with spinach, and has a name ending with "ya (家)," there's a good chance it's an Ie-kei ramen shop.

'Ramen Jiro' Mita Main Branch located in Minato-ku, Tokyo. Even before the store opens at 8 a.m., people are lined up to taste Jiro-style ramen. Photo by Jeon Jinyeong.

The second lineage, which is currently trending, is the "Jiro (二郎)" style. The original "Ramen Jiro" opened in 1968 near Mita Station in Minato-ku, Tokyo. There's always a huge queue whenever you pass by, much like the lines at Korean sundae soup restaurants in Euljiro during lunchtime.

This shop is famous for its enormous portions. It features oily tonkotsu broth, flat noodles reminiscent of knife-cut noodles, and bowls overflowing with bean sprouts, cabbage, and chashu pork.

You select your portion size and pay at a ramen ticket vending machine. After taking your seat and handing your ticket to the staff, the staff will ask, "Would you like garlic?" At this point, you can also specify your preferences for garlic, vegetables, oiliness, and broth strength.

Even Korean men with big appetites often struggle to finish a regular-sized bowl here. It's not uncommon to be surprised at how quickly the Japanese men sitting next to you can finish their bowls and leave.

Jiro-kei has a very dedicated fanbase. Enthusiasts call themselves "Jirorian," and refer to the founder of the main store, Takumi Yamada, as the "head" or "commander." There are even "Jiro-kei purists" who will only eat at the original shop. Because the portions are so large, sometimes people cannot finish and have leftovers—an experience described as "sunk" or "defeated."

Tsukemen sold at Taishoken in Ikebukuro, Tokyo. Taishoken.

The third lineage is "Taishoken (大勝軒)-kei." The origin is Taishoken, a ramen shop in Ikebukuro, Tokyo, which created "tsukemen"—ramen noodles that are dipped into a separate broth. Originally, tsukemen was a "staff meal" for the employees, but it became an instant hit when offered to customers. The signature features are a clear, soy sauce and vinegar-based broth made from simmered meat, vegetables, and seafood, and chewy, bouncy noodles for dipping.

There is another Taishoken-kei lineage as well. Another shop with the same name in Eifukucho is the origin of this style. Its distinguishing feature is the use of broth made from dried sardines. Since the shops share the same name, the lineages are often distinguished by location.

Chuka Soba at 'Kanda Chiechan Ramen' located in Chiyoda-gu, Tokyo. Tabelog.

The last lineage is the "Chan (ちゃん)" style, which has only recently started to gain attention. It appeals to those who have grown tired of the competition for richer broths. The origin is "Kanda Chiechan Ramen," which opened in 2020 under the elevated tracks near Kanda Station in Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo.

This style features chuka soba—noodles served in a clear soy sauce broth topped with roughly sliced chashu pork. It's light yet addictive, earning the reputation of "the ultimate ordinariness." Above all, it is popular as an affordable meal during this era of high prices. Many shops offer unlimited rice refills, and a bowl typically costs between 800 and 900 yen, making it quite inexpensive. These shops also form purchasing cooperatives to buy ingredients in bulk, significantly lowering their costs.

It's fascinating how even a single bowl of ramen can have its own family tree. No wonder we call it food culture. Just as Koreans embark on cold noodle adventures in the summer, if you visit Japan, you should give these ramen styles a try. You might even discover your own favorite lineage.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.