[Michelin Try] Mandu Crafted with Time, Gaeseong Mandu Gung
How Could You Not Love Dumplings This Thick and Delicious!
Can you believe there is a restaurant that has been listed in the Michelin Bib Gourmand for six consecutive years? From 2017 to 2022, this remarkable achievement was earned by a restaurant located in a small alley of Insadong, Jongno-gu: "Gaeseong Mandu Gung". Starting with a grandmother from Gaeseong in 1970, followed by her daughter and granddaughter, this place has been run by three generations. What kind of charm does it hold?
Walking through Jongno-gu Insadong, where Korean traditional beauty is hidden here and there, you come across a neat and old-fashioned hanok (traditional Korean house). Right inside the spacious window of that hanok, you can see hands tirelessly making dumplings. The fast yet precise crafting of delicious-looking dumplings is impressive. It raises your expectations for the taste of the dumplings.
The Drinkit team ordered a dumpling hot pot for two with half meat and half kimchi dumplings, along with a green onion pancake. For the dumpling hot pot, you can choose between clear broth and spicy broth, and we chose the clear broth.
Dumpling hot pot bubbling away. Although waiting time is necessary to enjoy delicious food, it was a time both happy and unbearably painful.
View original imageThe basic side dishes are kimchi, cubed radish kimchi (kkakdugi), and dongchimi (radish water kimchi), all of which are homemade. When making kimchi, they use almost no seasoning and follow a somewhat unique method. In the early days of opening, some customers did not prefer the somewhat unfamiliar taste of the kimchi. However, that very "unfamiliar kimchi taste" gradually became the charm of this restaurant and a symbol of Gaeseong Mandu Gung.
When the green onion pancake arrived, its thick size made us gasp. Thick green onions and large pieces of squid were visible here and there, and the golden-brown pancake boasted an irresistible visual. The spicy aroma and taste of the green onions were not felt at all. Instead, the more you chew, the sweeter it became, stimulating the appetite.
While eating the green onion pancake, we eagerly waited for the dumpling hot pot to boil. Now, shall we try it?
Thanks to the generous inclusion of napa cabbage and mung bean sprouts in the dumpling filling, it features a mild yet clean taste. Also, ingredients like tofu and eggs are included, adding a lightness to the flavor. The thin dumpling skin makes the already packed filling look even more abundant. Although it is a meat dumpling, it is hardly greasy or heavy, and the taste of tofu is quite noticeable. At a glance, the texture feels like a mix of tofu and chicken breast.
When the dumpling is split open, the generously filled ingredients inside spill out abundantly.
View original imageNone of the team members found the kimchi taste particularly unpalatable, though it felt somewhat bland. It would be accurate to say that eating the dumplings and kimchi together does not interfere with each other's flavors. Perhaps because both the kimchi and kkakdugi are homemade, the kimchi dumplings vaguely reminded us of the familiar taste of dumplings made at home during childhood.
In fact, when tasting Gaeseong Mandu Gung’s kimchi for the first time, the rather mild flavor felt unfamiliar compared to kimchi dumplings we had eaten before. However, the subtle spiciness not found in the meat dumplings and the rich texture of the kimchi filling stood out. It is better to think of it not as the typical spicy and salty kimchi flavor, but as a slight addition of kimchi to the meat dumplings to enhance the taste.
When asked about the feelings of being selected for the Michelin Guide - Bib Gourmand for six consecutive years and the driving force behind Gaeseong Mandu Gung’s continuous love, the owner replied as follows.
"Being loved by customers who visit the restaurant often is not easy to bear. I think we always need to be grateful. We always keep in mind that people trust and eat what we make ourselves. When my grandmother passed down the secret recipe to me, she said, 'Make it so that you and your daughter can eat it.' I always try to keep that in my heart when running the restaurant."
Gaeseong Mandu Gung’s dumpling hot pot, filled with freshly mixed ingredients and dumplings made daily, and the broth made by simmering brisket, is perfect for eating on cold days when the biting chill creeps into your collar. It is especially expected to be more satisfying when visiting with elders. Stop by on days when your tongue and stomach are tired of spicy foods every day and want to soothe them.
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