[Jo Yongjun's Travel Journey] Under the 'Sarangnamu' Tree by Bukhan River, Sending a 'Love Vow'

Journey to Autumn in Sanso Village Hwacheon - Befriended by the Sound of Wind and Water

The most striking scenery in the upper reaches of the Bukhan River in Hwacheon is the Sarang Tree of Georye-ri, standing alone tall by the riverside. Its appearance is unusually elegant and somehow extraordinary. As the sky grows higher and the season turns colorful autumn, standing under the wide shade of the tree feels like being in a different world.

Paroho

Puntundari, part of the 100-ri Sanso-gil trail

Kkeomeokdari

Seo-oji-ri Lotus Village

National Hwacheon Forest Recreation Forest

Early morning on the Bukhan River

[Asia Economy, Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] Hwacheon, located deep in Gangwon Province, is famous for its Sancheoneo (Korean trout) Festival. The power of Sancheoneo is so great that other attractions hardly stand a chance. However, due to COVID-19, places less crowded than festivals and those where people can recharge their tired bodies and minds have become popular. Contactless drives, quiet forest visits, and car camping for personal time are examples. These are the new landscapes shaped by the pandemic. So, what draws travelers to Hwacheon beyond the Sancheoneo Festival in the COVID era? There are several perfect travel spots. Just hearing their names lifts your spirits and evokes a refreshing breeze, such as the 'Oxygen 100-ri Trail,' the drive along the Bukhan River, and the Georye-ri Love Tree. There are also great paths for cycling and forest walking. And that’s not all. Though less so now, the remote village of Bisugumi, once called the most secluded area, and the sorrowful lake Paroho’s waterway journey are also must-sees. The invigorating air from the river, forest, lake, and surrounding mountain slopes clears your chest. Let’s head to Hwacheon, perfect for welcoming autumn in the COVID era.

From Chuncheon, take local road 407 to Hwacheon-eup. After passing through Budari Tunnel and traveling about 3 km, the spectacular upper Bukhan River scenery appears on the left side of the road. The most striking sight here is a lone Zelkova tree standing tall by the riverside. Its posture is unusually elegant and somehow extraordinary. This is the so-called Georye-ri Love Tree.

Estimated to be several hundred years old, this tree has endured years of wind and rain. Its branches spread in all directions, and the leaves are so dense that little light penetrates. A shade nearly 10 meters in radius extends beneath the tree. Standing under this vast shade feels like being in another world. It offers coolness in summer and a magnificent view harmonizing with the Bukhan River in autumn. It also provides an excellent refuge for various birds and insects, truly a 'giving tree' without reserve.

There is no separate photo zone bench under the tree. On sunny days, it’s perfect for gazing at the sparkling river, and when it rains, you can immerse yourself in the mysterious scenery of mist rising gently from the water.

Recently, it has gained fame by appearing in several dramas and music videos. There is also a legend that couples who pledge their love here will have an unchanging relationship, making it a popular dating spot.

South of the Love Tree, a bridge leads to a small island in the middle of the river, ending with a ring-shaped observatory called Banji Bridge. It might be fitting to understand this as a place to confirm love at the Love Tree and make precious promises at Banji Bridge.

The area around the Love Tree features a riverside walking path, an ecological forest, and a plaza where visitors can fully experience the charm of the upper Bukhan River. Notably, the ecological forest houses a nationally popular park golf course with 18 holes and practice holes. The scenery is better than many golf courses, and playing alongside the Bukhan River is pure joy.

The Love Tree is also the starting point for trips connecting various Hwacheon attractions. Follow the Bukhan River to the Oxygen Trail. The highlight of the Oxygen Trail is the 'Bridge to the Forest.' The novelist Kim Hoon personally named it 'Bridge to the Forest.' It starts at Tongtong Bridge crossing the Hwacheon River and continues along a 1.2 km pontoon bridge over the water, followed by a 2.2 km dirt path preserved in a primeval forest state.

Following the fresh, vibrant forest and descending onto the bridge over the water, you are immersed in Hwacheon’s picturesque scenery like a watercolor painting.

The Bridge to the Forest is constructed by floating tube-shaped pontoon boats on the water, tightly woven with wooden planks on top. Each step you take feels the ripple of the water. The river is so calm that the mountains’ reflections mirror perfectly like a decalcomania. In autumn, you can walk as if swimming through colorful fall foliage. When the temperature difference is large in autumn, thick fog settles, allowing you to walk through a dreamy mist.

As you stroll gently, enchanted by the water’s color, the shimmering ripples beneath your feet and the awakening autumn mountains bring a refreshing feeling to your heart.

The Bridge to the Forest is also part of the 'Bukhan River Oxygen 100-ri Trail' created for cyclists. The 'Oxygen 100-ri Trail' is a 42 km cycling path along the Bukhan River. Most sections are flat, making it accessible for anyone to complete.

Heading back upstream along the Bukhan River, you encounter Geomeok Bridge. Built alongside the completion of Hwacheon Dam in 1945, Geomeok Bridge was completed through the hands of three countries. The piers were built by Japan, the steel frame was added by Russia (former Soviet Union) after liberation, and the deck was laid by Korea after the Korean War, giving it its current form. Due to its unique history, the bridge is designated Registered Cultural Heritage No. 110. The dark bridge bears the marks of time. The piers still show bullet and shell marks from the Korean War, making your steps heavy. Looking at the wounded yet silently flowing river evokes deep sorrow.

Not far from here is 'Dansan,' an island-like hill standing alone. Actually, it is only 165 meters high, more like a small hill than a mountain. In winter, an artificial ice wall attracts climbers. In front of Dansan flows a clear, shallow river.

Leaving Dansan and winding along the mountain foothills upstream of the Bukhan River leads to Paroho Lake. This artificial lake was created when Hwacheon Dam was built. During the Korean War, President Syngman Rhee named it 'Paroho,' meaning 'Lake that Defeated the Barbarians (Chinese Communist Forces).'

Paroho also offers cruise tours. From Paroho dock, you can enjoy a round-trip cruise of about three hours aboard the Mulbitnuriho.

Paroho, with reflections of small islands on its calm waves, creates a serene and peaceful atmosphere. From the deck of Mulbitnuriho, the breathtaking views of Haesan and Wolmyeongbong naturally elicit awe. The water level is low, revealing exposed mud boundaries in places, which is a pity. The 13 km 'Ginkgo Tree Road' from Hwacheon Five-way Intersection Symbol Tower to Haesan Pass is also not to be missed.

Hwacheon = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Gyeongchun Expressway to Chuncheon Interchange. Cross Soyang 6 Bridge along National Road 46 to Gancheok Intersection, then turn left toward Hwacheon Oeum. Pass Oeum Intersection, Gandong Township Office, and Paroho Tourist Site, cross Daebung Bridge, and you arrive at Hwacheon-eup.

△ Food = In Daeri, Hwacheon-eup, Pyongyang Makguksu is famous for Chogye-tang, a dish where shredded chicken is eaten in a tangy chicken broth before mixing in the buckwheat noodles. Hwacheon Eojuktang in Gandong Township, on the way to Paroho dock, is a mild and rich fish stew made by grinding small fish with vegetables. Kong Sarang in Daeri offers delicious soybean dishes and assorted bossam (boiled pork wraps).

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.