[Ko Gyuhong's Trees and People] Listening to the Voice of Mincho for 600 Years... Each Crooked Branch Holds Joy, Anger, Sorrow, and Pleasure...
<8> The Tree of Trees, Chamnamu Oak
There is a small village called Byeongsan-ri in Dansan-myeon near Buseoksa Temple in Yeongju, Gyeongbuk, known as the Grape Village. It is a cozy village welcomed by a beautiful tree on a low hill at the village entrance.
The tree is the 'Yeongpung Byeongsan-ri Quercus aliena,' Natural Monument No. 285. 'Yeongpung' is a name derived from the first syllables of Yeongju and Punggi. Although it was abolished when it was integrated into Yeongju City in the 1995 administrative district reorganization, it remains as the proper name of the natural monument, preserving the old place name.
The Yeongpung Byeongsan-ri Quercus aliena is not a remarkable tree in terms of height or trunk circumference. However, by looking at its appearance, one can fully understand why it was designated and protected as a natural monument. Estimated to have lived about 600 years as the village guardian tree, this Quercus aliena stands about 15 meters tall. It is clearly a small tree compared to other natural monuments or protected trees.
Among the 15 Quercus aliena trees designated as protected trees, many exceed 20 meters in height. Even if not, most protected Quercus aliena trees are taller than 15 meters, making the Yeongpung Byeongsan-ri Quercus aliena relatively small. Its trunk circumference is about 3 meters, which is also not large.
The value of this Quercus aliena lies not in its size. Its modest and graceful posture is much more refined and neat compared to other ancient giant trees. The atmosphere harmonizing with the surrounding environment is also peaceful. The straight trunk rises neatly, then twists and bends, with branches sprawling around in a writhing manner, creating an endlessly beautiful scene.
The tree’s expression changes significantly depending on the viewing angle. Walking around the spacious area generously spread around the tree, one marvels at how a single tree can display such diverse expressions.
It is said that this tree was planted in 1426, the 8th year of King Sejong of the Joseon Dynasty, by Hwang Jeon of the Changwon Hwang clan, who held the post of Bongrye at Tongrye-won, but this is not certain. Based on this, the tree is estimated to be nearly 600 years old.
This tree, the only Quercus aliena designated and protected as a natural monument, is honored with a village ritual (Dongje) every year on the first full moon of the lunar new year. It is said that neglecting this ritual brings misfortune to the village.
The name Quercus aliena might be somewhat unfamiliar. In the past, people did not use the current standard botanical name but called it 'dotorinamu' (acorn tree) or 'chamnamu' (oak). However, in modern botanical taxonomy, there is no single species named 'chamnamu.' 'Chamnamu' refers to the family of oak trees collectively, not a single species.
The true colors of Yeongpung Byeongsan-ri Garam Oak revealed with all the fallen leaves, showing only the stems and branches.
View original imageThe tree as firewood, the fruit as food
Oaks that protected the poor lives of the people
Only four natural monuments including
Yeongpung Byeongsan-ri Quercus aliena exist
Branches sprawling in a writhing manner
Showcase endlessly beautiful posture
Among the oak family trees that bear acorns, there are six species called the 'oak sextet': Quercus acutissima, Quercus mongolica, Quercus aliena, Quercus dentata, Quercus variabilis, and Quercus serrata.
Our ancestors regarded these trees as the 'tree among trees.' They attached the best name 'cham' (meaning true or genuine) in Korean to their names for this reason. In fact, no tree is as familiar to our people's livelihood as the oak family trees. They grow well anywhere in Korea due to the suitable climate, and their fruit, acorns, were a good source of food.
The origins of the names of oak family trees are also interesting. The Quercus acutissima, which has the broadest leaves in the family, was named because its leaves were used to wrap rice cakes. Quercus mongolica got its name because its wood was used for shoe soles. Quercus serrata, the smallest among the oak family trees, was called 'jolbyeong chamnamu' (soldier oak), hence the name Jolchamnamu. Quercus aliena was called 'goljineun chamnamu' (grooved oak) because of the grooves on its bark, which later became Quercus aliena.
During the Japanese invasions of Korea (Imjin War), King Seonjo, who was in exile, had limited food supplies and often received dishes made from the acorns of Quercus variabilis. Because these acorns were served on the royal table, the tree came to be called 'Sangsura' tree, which later became Quercus variabilis.
However, the name 'Sangsuri' of Quercus variabilis likely originates from the Chinese characters 'Sangsil (橡實).' Records from the 15th-century text 'Hyangyak Gugupbang' mention the acorns of Quercus variabilis as 'Sangsil.' The 'Donguibogam' translates this 'Sangsil' as 'Gulgeun dotori' (acorn with a hard shell). It is reasonable to interpret that the name evolved from 'Sangsil' to 'Sangsuli' and then to 'Sangsuri tree.'
Because these trees are so familiar, it feels almost unnecessary to call them 'favorite trees.' There is a reason why oak family trees have difficulty living long. If left in their natural state, oak family trees would eventually form climax forests (stable ecosystems adapted to local climate over a long period) in our forests. However, pine-dominated forests are much more common in Korea.
This is because oak trees suffered extensive logging by civilians during the Joseon Dynasty. The government protected pine trees as a national policy, primarily for their use. The state encouraged people to cut oak trees instead of pine trees for firewood. As a result, people indiscriminately cut the abundant oak trees in the mountains and fields for firewood and collected acorns as food.
Consequently, finding ancient oak trees has become difficult. Among natural monuments, there are over 20 ginkgo trees and zelkova trees each, and 27 pine trees. However, no Quercus variabilis, Quercus mongolica, or Quercus acutissima designated as natural monuments exist. Only one Quercus aliena and three Quercus aliena trees are designated. These are the Yeongpung Byeongsan-ri Quercus aliena, Uljin Susan-ri Quercus aliena (No. 96), Seoul Sillim-dong Quercus aliena (No. 271), and Andong Daegok-ri Quercus aliena (No. 288). Considering the cultural connection between trees and our culture, this number is surprisingly small.
The oak tree in Sillim-dong, Seoul, standing with the legend that the staff planted by General Gang Gam-chan during the Goryeo Dynasty grew.
View original image
The Uljin Susan-ri Oak Tree, which has lived by the seaside of Uljin-gun, overseeing the village's abundant harvests and bountiful catches.
View original imageIn the consciousness of our people, oaks are somewhat distant. For example, in last October's Korean Gallup poll on 'Favorite Trees of Koreans,' no oak species appeared in the top 10. The same was true in the 2004 and 2014 surveys. Although oaks are the 'tree among trees,' they have never ranked in the top 10 favorite trees of Koreans.
There are indeed large and old beautiful oak trees growing near us that could be considered natural monument-worthy. For example, although called 'Jolchamnamu' (soldier oak) as a derogatory term, many large and beautifully grown Jolchamnamu trees exist.
One such tree is the Jolchamnamu located in the village guardian forest of Buk-su Village in Songha-ri, at the entrance of the Maebongsan hiking trail in Subi-myeon, Yeongyang-gun, Gyeongbuk. Buk-su Village is a deep, quiet mountain village with dense forests and a large stream called Jangpacheon flowing in front of the village.
The Songha-ri Jolchamnamu, the guardian tree of Buk-su Village, is arguably the largest among oak species in Korea. This 250-year-old Jolchamnamu reaches a height of 20 meters and has a trunk circumference of 3.5 meters at chest height. Despite its name, it has long served as the guardian tree fulfilling the villagers' wishes. It has been well protected by the villagers for a long time and boasts a very healthy and beautiful appearance. It is a giant tree at the center of the forest composed of various trees, including pines, at the entrance of the Maebongsan hiking trail. It is undoubtedly a tree with cultural value living alongside people.
Trees are natural objects with humanistic and cultural value. Above all, they stand holding the long history of human life lived alongside them. It is time to examine more carefully the relationship between human life and trees. Trees that have protected our poor lives for hundreds of years and earned the name 'tree among trees, oak.' Perhaps it is time to proudly present them one by one before us.
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Tree Columnist
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