[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Secluded Cypress Forest, Energetic Geumgang Pine Forest... Breathe Freely

6 Selected Cypress and Geumgang Pine Forest Trails for Untact (Contactless) Travel

The cypress forest in Gonggi Village, Wanju (above) and the Korean red pine forest trail in Sogwang-ri, Uljin (below)

Samcheok Jungyeongmyo Geumgang Pine Tree

Suncheon Gulmokijae Cypress Forest

Jangseong Chukryeongsan Cypress Forest Photo by Yoon Dong-joo

[Asia Economy Reporter Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] When you enter an ancient forest, your five senses come alive. The pure bird songs and the sound of the wind open your ears wide. The sharp scent of the trees clears out the old residue in your lungs, naturally calming your mind. That lingering feeling lasts long. The true value of the forest lined with straight, towering cypress trees can only be felt once you step inside. The cypress forest, filled with phytoncides?natural antibacterial substances?is charming whether it’s hot or rainy. What about the Geumgang pine? How can one describe the feeling of walking along a forest path lined with pristine Geumgang pines, breathing in the scent of the wood? Just a few breaths in the Geumgang pine forest refresh your entire body. Pine forests are especially pleasant in autumn like now, with their elegant posture and stronger scent. When the high temperature difference in autumn causes mist to rise slowly in the pine forest, it creates an even more dreamy landscape. We have gathered cypress and Geumgang pine forests across the country that are great for healing the body and mind tired from COVID-19. These are good places to visit once the pandemic stabilizes. Due to social distancing measures, opening days are frequently changing. It is best to check the opening status of each forest trail before visiting.

◇ Geumgang Pine Forest in Sogwang-ri, Uljin, Gyeongbuk = The Geumgang pine (Geumgangsonamu) is a native pine tree that grows around the Taebaek mountain range, including Geumgangsan. The Sogwang-ri Geumgang pine forest is located in a remote area. You have to go 15 km further along National Road 36 from Uljin towards Bonghwa to reach it. The forest has been well preserved because it is situated in such a remote area. Even during the Japanese colonial period, when the Japanese extensively logged timber around the Baekdudaegan mountain range, this forest remained untouched.

On the slopes around Sogwang-ri, about 80,000 Geumgang pines aged 200 to 300 years grow. Some are over 500 years old. There are well-established hiking courses centered around the Sogwang-ri area. It is enjoyable to find famous Geumgang pines such as the '500-year-old Geumgang pine,' which has been growing since the reign of King Seongjong, and the 'Beauty Pine,' known for its slender figure. To preserve the forest, visits are restricted. Reservations must be made through the Geumgang Pine Forest Trail website. The 'Geumgang Pine Eco-rium,' a forest healing facility operated by Uljin County, offers forest healing programs including meditation and forest trail exploration.

◇ Jun-gyeongmyo in Samcheok, Gangwon = The Geumgang pines around Jun-gyeongmyo in Hwalgiri, Miro-myeon, are straight and robust. It is said that pines from this area were used when rebuilding Gyeongbokgung Palace in the late Joseon Dynasty. Jun-gyeongmyo is the tomb of Yi Yang-mu, the fifth ancestor of Joseon’s founder Yi Seong-gye. The pine forest here was protected by the royal family during the Joseon era and more recently managed as a clan forest by the Jeonju Yi family, preventing damage.

You need to park your car at the Hwalgiri agricultural product collection center and walk about 1.8 km uphill. After about 30 minutes of hiking, you will find Geumgang pines densely filling the flat area around the tomb, towering as if piercing the sky. Visiting early in the morning or right after rain or snow when the mist is thick offers a mystical atmosphere.

Near Hwalgiri, in Hasajeon-ri, there is Yeonggyeongmyo, the tomb of Yi Yang-mu’s wife, Lady Yi. Although not as grand as Jun-gyeongmyo, this easily accessible site by car also has slender pines forming a beautiful forest.

◇ Geumgang Pine in Chunyang, Bonghwa-gun, Gyeongbuk = On the hills around Seobyeok-ri, Chunyang-myeon, about 1,500 Geumgang pines with trunks over 50 cm in diameter grow. The name 'Chunyangmok,' another name for Geumgang pine, originated here. It was named because pines from the Bonghwa area were gathered at Chunyang Station on the Yeongdong Line railway and sold nationwide. The pines in this area are known for their very hard wood and strong scent. Due to intensive logging during the Japanese colonial period and even around the Korean War, the age of the pines is not very old. Most are 40 to 50 years old. There is a hiking trail in the pine forest, which takes about an hour to walk around. Next to the Seobyeok-ri Geumgang pine forest is Dunae Mineral Spring, known for its effectiveness against digestive and skin diseases. Located by a stream, it is easily accessible. The area around the spring has many maple trees, making it a great autumn foliage destination.

◇ Cypress Forest in Gonggi Village, Wanju, Jeonbuk = Jukrim-ri, Sang-gwan-myeon, Wanju-gun, is called 'Gonggi Village' because the air is clean and pure, or because when viewed from the nearby Oknyobong and Hano-bong mountains behind the village, it looks like a rice bowl.

There is a vast cypress forest here. In 1976, villagers planted and nurtured 100,000 cypress trees over 859,500 square meters (about 260,000 pyeong) on the mountain slopes behind the village. Although less known than other cypress forests, this forest is surprisingly deep.

The forest is dark and cool even at midday. The air is fresh, and not a single insect is around. Under the dense cypress trees, there are many stones. Large stones provide comfortable resting spots.

In the middle of the cypress forest, there is a forest bathing area. A wooden deck is set up in a slightly less dense part of the forest for rest. Sitting quietly and focusing solely on breathing, one naturally understands why this place is called a 'healing forest.'

◇ Cypress Trees on Chukryeongsan Mountain, Jangseong = Chukryeongsan is synonymous with cypress forests. The mountain’s gentle and low terrain is covered like a sea with neatly arranged cypress, cedar, and broadleaf trees. Over 1.7 million pyeong of cypress and cedar trees stand densely. The Chukryeongsan cypress forest trekking courses are diverse. Centered on a wide forest road that allows vehicles to pass each other, there are trails named Solnaeum Forest Trail (2.2 km), Oxygen Forest Trail (1.9 km), Health Forest Trail (2.9 km), and Sky Forest Trail (2.7 km), all interconnected like a spider web. Any course can be completed comfortably within two hours, and you can combine several courses for a longer walk. Walking these trails makes you realize anew how much comfort trees, forests, and nature provide us. This realization leads to respect for those who created this vast forest.

◇ Cypress Forest at Gulmogi-jae, Suncheon = Seonamsa Temple in Suncheon, Jeonnam, is a gracefully aged temple. There is a must-see spot at Seonamsa: the cypress forest at the entrance of Gulmogi-jae, which connects Seonamsa to Songgwangsa Temple. The cypress forest, towering as if piercing the sky, is not large in scale. However, perhaps because it faces the quiet temple, the dim forest is filled with tranquility.

The cypress forest is about a 10-minute walk from Seonamsa Temple grounds. Passing the ecological outdoor learning center, the cypress forest you encounter is spectacular. The 60- to 70-year-old cypress trees soar skyward without obstruction, creating a majestic sight. Sitting at the wooden rest area, the sharp phytoncide scent emitted by the vigorously growing cypress trees is profound.

If you visit Seonamsa, it is recommended to also cross Gulmogi-jae, which connects to Songgwangsa. It is a path entering the temple along the 8th ridge of Jogyesan Mountain. It is one of the Namdo 300-ri trails in Suncheon, called the 'Millennium Buddha Faith Trail.' The barley rice restaurant, over 30 years old and located about halfway up Gulmogi-jae, serves excellent food.

Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.