[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Sounds of Water, Birds, and Wind... The Sudden Encounter with the 'Sound' of Enlightenment

A Contactless Journey to Hapcheon Haeinsa Sorigil Trail

Haeinsa Sorigil, where you can walk while listening to the sounds of water, birds, and wind, is a path that signifies realizing something beneficial. The walking time is about 3 hours, but time does not matter. The key is to take enough time and walk slowly. Photo by the 500-year-old Zelkova tree located in Yaro-myeon, 7km from the entrance of Haeinsa Sorigil.

Haeinsa Sorigil Trail

Due to the recent monsoon, the valley water has risen and the current is strong.

Auto Camping Site on Sorigil

Janggyeong Panjeon, the repository housing the Tripitaka Koreana at Haeinsa Temple

[Asia Economy, Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] The novel coronavirus infection (COVID-19) is showing signs of spreading. Social distancing level 2 is currently in effect nationwide. It is somewhat cautious to introduce travel destinations, but we recommend places you can visit in a non-face-to-face (untact) manner. Even if not this weekend, we encourage you to visit once COVID-19 subsides. We are heading to Hapcheon, Gyeongnam. When you think of Hapcheon, Haeinsa Temple probably comes to mind first. However, do not rush directly by car to the Haeinsa parking lot. You might miss the Haeinsa Sound Trail that helps you momentarily forget the weary worries of the world. The Hongryudong Valley leading up to Haeinsa means "even the flowing water looks red." Our ancestors named it after seeing the green leaves in summer and the red maple leaves falling into the flowing water in autumn, coloring the valley red. This valley has been reborn as the Haeinsa Sound Trail. It is a total of 7 km and takes about 3 hours. However, this time is not very meaningful. Rather, we recommend taking enough time and walking slowly. The path connecting the village, forest, and valley becomes leisurely and enriching just by walking. And that's not all. Near the Sound Trail in Yaro-myeon, there is a famous Zelkova tree known as a popular spot for SNS certification photos. It might be good to stop by and take a photo. The Video Theme Park is an open set specialized in period dramas, recreating the background from the 1920s to the 1980s. It faithfully reproduces Seoul during the Japanese colonial period and the streets of Jongno in the 1970s.

The Haeinsa Sound Trail is an excellent path to cleanse a heart weary from COVID-19 and perfect for walking alone. Most of the trail is a gentle forest path or wooden deck, making it easy to walk without burden. The scenery is as beautiful as its name. The dense forest and cool valley together delight both eyes and heart, gradually easing worldly worries.

The 'Sori (蘇利)' in Sound Trail means realizing something beneficial, and in Buddhism, it also means "the path to paradise." But when written in Hangul, it also implies walking while listening to various sounds such as water, birds, and wind.

The starting point of the Sound Trail is the parking lot of the Tripitaka Koreana Cultural Theme Park. Cross Gaksa Bridge and enter the Sound Trail entrance on the right. The granite marker at the entrance reads, "The sound of life communicating with the universe and nature; if you listen carefully, you can hear the sound of passing time."

Descending into the valley, the towering rock peaks and majestic, resonant water sounds evoke a celestial realm. An ancient sage who visited here once recited: "Quietly, with slow steps, I seek the forest hill / At every winding pile of stones, waves collide / Flowers fall and birds cry, few people around / Even the clouds deepen, I cannot find the place I once played."

Following the petals flowing from the valley at Chukhwacheon, after passing wooden stairs and decks, you descend to a dirt path where ripening grains and slightly reddish apples hanging in clusters greet visitors.

Passing the Sound Trail Auto Campground, you reach the Murungdong intersection with a sign indicating "Parking lot 1.7 km, Haeinsa 5.4 km, Cheongnyangsa 2.1 km." To the left is the direction to Cheongnyangsa, and to the right is Guwon-ri village. Going straight toward Haeinsa soon leads to the Sound Trail Exploration Support Center. From here, the narrow, winding forest path and the clear, majestic valley path play hide-and-seek. The sound of water fades into the distance and then comes close as if within reach, repeating this pattern.

Following the beautiful valley, you encounter waterfalls and famous spots where various legends and poems from ancient poets captivate travelers' eyes and ears.

Walking as the Sound Trail guides, you arrive at Hongryumun Gate, which bears the sign "Beopbojongchal Gayasan Haeinsa." After paying the entrance fee and walking a little further, you reach Nongsanjeong Pavilion, where Choi Chi-won composed poetry and enjoyed nature. Nongsanjeong has two bays on both the front and side, and its roof is a hipped-and-gabled style shaped like the character eight (팔). In front of the pavilion, on the valley rock, is Chiwondae, engraved with his seven-character poem, and many inscriptions carved by others on various rocks. The name Nongsanjeong originates from the poem engraved on Chiwondae, and a monument commemorating Choi Chi-won's achievements is also erected there.

After passing Nongsanjeong, the forest thickens, revealing scenic spots such as Eumpungnoe, meaning "a pool where the wind and moon are recited," Chepilam, where brushes were washed, Wanjaeam, where poetry was composed, Gwangpungnoe, meaning "a pool where the wind dances with light," Bunokpok, a waterfall that gushes like jade, and Jewoldam, a pool that reflects the bright moon after rain. For a moment, forget the world's hustle and bustle and listen to the voice of your heart.

The Haeinsa Sound Trail, accompanied by the sound of valley water, is beautiful in summer when the old pines add greenery, but it is also a great path to walk in autumn when the foliage is spectacular and in winter when covered with white snow.

Crossing Myeongjin Bridge, you enter a barrier-free exploration section with tactile plates, yellow soil pavement, and wooden decks, making it easy to use even with a wheelchair. Passing under the Hasim (lowering oneself and elevating others) tree at the wooden deck entrance, you reach Nakhwadam, the highlight of the Sound Trail. The water cascading down the majestic rock cliff is magnificent, and the deep blue pond scatters white foam. The vigorous sound of water quickens your heartbeat and refreshes your chest.

Crossing Yeongsan Bridge, the Sound Trail nears its end. Passing the Seongbo Museum and following the sound of bamboo grass, you arrive at the thousand-year-old Haeinsa Temple.

'Haein' means the cessation of the worldly troubles that disturb the mind and the appearance of enlightenment before us. Entering Haeinsa naturally brings peace to the mind, befitting its name.

Haeinsa, one of Korea's three treasure temples, holds such great heritage that the entire temple is considered a national treasure. The most representative are the Tripitaka Koreana (National Treasure No. 32) and the Janggyeong Panjeon (No. 52).

The Tripitaka Koreana, created during the Goryeo Dynasty, is a collection of wooden printing blocks engraved with the Buddha's teachings of enlightenment. There are 81,258 blocks with over 52 million characters. The Janggyeong Panjeon is the storage building constructed to house these blocks.

The front of the Janggyeong Panjeon building has smaller upper windows and larger lower windows, while the back has larger upper windows and smaller lower windows. This design reflects the wisdom of ancestors to facilitate air circulation and reduce temperature differences inside the building.

After walking the Sound Trail, head to Gujeong-ri village in Yaro-myeon, 15 km from Haeinsa. Here is a popular SNS certification photo spot. A 500-year-old Zelkova tree stands tall in the middle of the road spreading in all directions, like the village guardian deity.

Even when strong rain and wind from typhoons blow, the Zelkova tree firmly stands watching over the village. Villagers always pass by this tree when going to the fields. With a circumference of 6 meters and ample shade, it is always bustling with people. Kindergarten children use it as a picnic spot, grandmothers as a meeting place with friends, and farmers as a forum to share neighbors' news after a day's work. The tree is remarkable for having lived with the villagers for a long time, growing deep roots, branches, and leaves.

Hapcheon also has a nostalgic travel destination that takes you back in time. Hapcheon Video Theme Park is an open set specialized in period dramas, recreating backgrounds from the 1920s to the 1980s. Centered around Gyeongseong Station, on the left is the KBS historical drama "Seoul 1945" set, faithfully reproducing the streets of Gyeongseong Station during the Japanese colonial period. On the other side is the modernized 1970s Seoul Jongno street.

Many productions such as the dramas "Gaksital," "Gyeongseong Scandal," "Mr. Sunshine," and movies like "Taegukgi," "Taxi Driver," "Assassination," and "The Age of Shadows" were filmed here. Another attraction is a set built at 70% scale of the actual Blue House, with spaces like the Baekak Room and Inwang Room on the first floor. From the outside, it closely resembles the real Blue House.

Hapcheon = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jnu21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = To reach Haeinsa Sound Trail, take the Gyeongbu Expressway, pass the Gimcheon Junction, and exit at Seongju Interchange on the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway. From Seongju Interchange, turn left following National Road 33, then at the three-way intersection in Suryeon-myeon, turn right toward Haeinsa.

Hapcheon Video Theme Park

△ Attractions = Hwangmaesan, Odusan, Haeinsa Seongbo Museum, Nammyung Josik Seonbi Trail, Hapcheon Lake Trail, Hambyeokru Pavilion, Gayasan, and more.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.