[Akyung Wine Cellar] A Century-Old Legacy of RM Champagne... Filled with Floral Aromas

<30> French "Domaine Bauchet Champagne"
Champagne House Founded in 1920, Now in Its Fifth Generation of Family Management
RM Champagne: From Grape Growing to Winemaking, All in One
House Champagne at Josun Palace Gangnam

Editor's NoteThere are no two identical wines under the sky. Even when grapes are grown on the same land and vinified and aged in the same way each year, the results are always different. Wine is a 'serendipitous drink' created through the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine, leaving behind only a single vivid memory before quietly disappearing, carries its own fascinating story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' brings you these stories, each shaped and matured by their unique circumstances.

The heart in the logo of Domaine Bauchet Champagne was created by combining the letter 'B' from Bauchet with a champagne flute.

'Belle Epoque,' meaning 'beautiful era' in French, was a period that brought prosperity to the champagne industry. During the Belle Epoque era, which lasted from 1871 until the outbreak of World War I in 1914, not only France but all of Europe was captivated by the clear, sparkling bubbles of champagne, leading to explosive growth in the market. Production, which stood at about 1 million bottles in the early 1800s, soared to 20 million bottles by 1870 and surpassed 30 million bottles by 1900.

However, as the Belle Epoque came to an end, darkness fell over the champagne industry. Through two world wars, renowned champagne houses and vineyards suffered extensive damage from shelling, and demand plummeted due to the Great Depression and the implementation of Prohibition in the United States. Until the end of World War II, the champagne industry endured and struggled through half a century of darkness.

Champagne Revival Led by Domestic Demand in France

After the war, it was the French domestic market that led the recovery of the champagne industry. With increased consumption among French citizens, champagne sales in the mid-1950s returned to the 1913 level of 35 million bottles per year, and by the 1970s, domestic consumption in France had increased more than fivefold. Alongside the market's recovery, the latter half of the 20th century saw a clear contrast in champagne consumption compared to the first half, particularly with the rise of 'Recoltant Manipulant' (RM) champagnes, often referred to as 'RM.'

During this period, about half of champagne production came from RM producers, with Parisians especially favoring RM champagnes. The sense of dealing directly with the family that produced the champagne increased psychological satisfaction among consumers. For producers, it provided an opportunity to receive immediate cash without the need for costly distribution networks.

Vineyard view of Domaine Bauchet Champagne.

Both in the past and today, the champagne market is dominated by large producers known as 'Grand Marque.' These major producers purchase grapes or base wine, make champagne on their own estates, and sell it under their own labels. This type of champagne is called 'Negociant Manipulant' (NM), commonly referred to as 'NM.' Most widely recognized champagnes, such as 'Moet et Chandon,' 'Veuve Clicquot,' and 'Krug,' fall into the NM category.

About 20 major producers account for roughly 70% of total champagne production, and there are reasons for this. Champagne made using traditional methods incurs much higher production and storage costs compared to regular still wines, so profitability can only be achieved with large-scale facilities and mass production. Additionally, given the luxury image associated with champagne, significant marketing investments are essential, giving large companies a clear advantage. For this reason, most major companies frequently absorb or merge with other brands to improve profitability. The fact that the world's largest luxury group, LVMH, owns all three of the aforementioned brands is rooted in this context.

Underground cellar view of Domaine Bauchet Champagne.

While NM champagnes certainly hold the dominant position in the market, it is actually RM champagnes that attract the most attention from wine enthusiasts. RM champagnes are produced and sold by champagne houses that make their own wine from grapes grown in their own vineyards and sell it under their own labels. Although these producers are relatively small in scale, their focus on expressing the terroir of their vineyards and their distinctive styles have made them increasingly popular among consumers interested in individuality and character. RM champagnes account for about 20% of the total champagne market, and there are more than 2,000 RM producers.

The Art of Blending Born from Mosaic Terroirs

'Domaine Bauchet' is an RM champagne house that began in 1920, when Felicien Bauchet started with a one-hectare vineyard in the Premier Cru village of Grauves in the Cote des Blancs, inherited from his mother. The Bauchet family's vineyards took on their current form when Felicien's three sons-Raphael, Gerard, and Roland-joined the family business in earnest. In the 1960s, they established a winery in the village of Bisseuil, where the key regions of Champagne-Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne, and Cote des Blancs-intersect, and later expanded their vineyards to cover 34 hectares.

Gerard and Roland Bauchet, founders of Domaine Bauchet

Domaine Bauchet's vineyards are spread across seven different crus in the Champagne region. The extensive terroirs, ranging from Cote des Blancs and Grande Vallee de la Marne to Cote des Bar, impart unique climatic and soil characteristics to the grapes, serving as the source of the complexity and depth found in their champagnes.

Among these, the Premier Cru vineyards in Grauves and Bisseuil, spanning 9 hectares, reliably supply top-quality grapes. Domaine Bauchet's vineyards feature as many as 12 different soil types, and, reflecting these characteristics, the vineyards are divided into 15 plots of about 2 hectares each for management. Thanks to this environment, Domaine Bauchet can cultivate grapes with unique character in each plot and blend them to create their signature style.

Champagne from Domaine Bauchet Champagne.

Before the grape harvest begins, Domaine Bauchet individually monitors the ripeness of each grape cluster to determine the optimal harvest time. Before the grape harvest begins, Domaine Bauchet individually monitors the ripeness of each grape cluster to determine the optimal harvest time. After harvesting, the grapes are meticulously sorted by tasting both the juice and the grapes at the vineyard and the press. Only the first pressing, known as 'Coeurs de Cuvee,' obtained through gentle and slow pressing, is used for the wine.

For non-vintage cuvee brut, various grape varieties and terroirs are blended in advance before fermentation. This increases the possibilities for combining grapes and juices from different origins before the magic of alcoholic fermentation and the action of yeast take effect, resulting in greater complexity-a process that requires a perfect understanding of terroir. After fermentation, the final blend is adjusted using reserve wines to fine-tune the character.

Underground cellar view of Domaine Bauchet Champagne.

Bruno Charlemagne, the cellar master at Domaine Bauchet, emphasizes managing the fermentation process and temperature according to the characteristics of different aging vessels. Temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, with their neutral properties, preserve the unique features of the terroir and grape varieties, while oak barrels impart structure, richness, and body to the wine through subtle oxidation and interaction with the wood, producing a variety of aromas.

Bauchet's underground cellar in Bisseuil stretches 250 meters in length. This cellar provides a perfectly stable temperature and a quiet environment, allowing various cuvees to undergo secondary fermentation and long-term aging. In particular, vintage champagnes are aged in the cellar for a minimum of 30 months and up to 7 years.

The Meeting of Tradition and Exceptional Terroir

Domaine Bauchet Champagne Origine Brut

Champagne is made primarily from three main grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Chardonnay is mainly grown in chalky limestone soils, and when grown under good conditions, it imparts purity, minerality, and finesse to the wine. Pinot Noir is cultivated in the warmest regions with the most sunlight; high-quality Pinot Noir grown on south-facing slopes brings depth, richness, and complexity. Pinot Meunier, compared to the other two varieties, is more resistant to frost and mold and is grown in the relatively humid lowlands along the Marne Valley. It is known for its soft, fresh fruit aromas and is often used in non-vintage blended wines for this reason. However, Pinot Meunier has the lowest aging potential among the three varieties and is not used in vintage wines or prestige cuvee champagnes.

Domaine Bauchet focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, excluding Pinot Meunier. 'Domaine Bauchet Champagne Origine Brut,' the house's flagship wine, is a blend of these two varieties in a 60:40 ratio. Aromas of sweet fruits like green apple and pear, along with floral notes reminiscent of hyacinth, fill the glass. Over time, nutty and sweet aromas such as butter, almond, and biscuit also emerge. In Korea, it is served as the house champagne at Josun Palace Gangnam.

'Domaine Bauchet Champagne Memoire Millesime 2018'

'Domaine Bauchet Champagne Memoire Millesime 2018,' a higher cuvee than Origine, uses only grapes grown in the Premier Cru vineyards of Grauves and Bisseuil. It is blended with 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir and released after a minimum of 60 months of aging. Memoire is notable for its rich and delicate bubbles, with summer fruit aromas like pear, peach, and pineapple, complemented by complex pastry and biscuit notes. The wine fills the palate with vibrant acidity, savory minerality, and a balanced sweetness, all unfolding with a cashmere-like elegant texture.

Of the estate's 33 hectares, Domaine Bauchet devotes 25 hectares to Pinot Noir, highlighting its importance. 'Domaine Bauchet Champagne Contraste Blanc De Pinot Noir,' made exclusively from Pinot Noir, offers the aroma of freshly baked bread from the very first sniff. Toasty notes are accompanied by clear hints of cream and honey, and as time passes, the wine develops complex layers of dried herbs, dried apricot, and smoky nuances. The freshness and richness are perfectly balanced, and the excellent minerality leaves a pleasantly bitter cocoa finish.

Domaine Bauchet Champagne Contraste Blanc De Pinot Noir

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