[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Baekje Stone Pagoda with Scattered Flower Petals, the 'Brilliant Sorrow' of an Ancient Kingdom

Journey to Baekje 1400 Years Ago - Iksan, Jeonbuk

Around the Wanggung-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda, large cherry blossom trees stand as if guarding it. Even when the petals have all fallen, the scene of new leaves sprouting from where the flowers once were, turning into fresh green foliage, is also beautiful.

The Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda, restored after 20 years of dismantling and reconstruction, stands majestically.

Sari containers and glass bottles excavated from the Wanggung-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda and Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda

Various gemstones exhibited at Iksan Jewelry Museum

[Asia Economy, Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] Let's embark on a journey to trace the remnants of the ancient kingdom of Baekje. This is the place where the passionate winds of the late Baekje period blew 1,400 years ago. It was brilliant yet fleeting, and the faded relics bear the scars of the enduring passage of time. When it comes to Baekje heritage sites, Chungnam’s Buyeo and Gongju are usually the first to be mentioned. However, Jeonbuk’s Iksan also holds numerous traces of the ancient kingdom. Iksan is a sacred site cultivated with the dream of revival just before Baekje’s fall. The palace site where the Wanggung-ri Stone Pagoda stands is believed to have been built during the reign of King Mu. Who was Baekje’s King Mu? He was Seodong, who entered Silla and had a legendary romance with Princess Seonhwa, daughter of King Jinpyeong. That is King Mu himself. Not only that, the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda, the oldest and largest existing stone pagoda in Korea, proudly stands at Mireuksaji. In 2019, 20 years after dismantling began, 1,627 pieces were assembled to reveal its majestic form. On a spring day when flower petals rained down profusely, we sought the last breath of Baekje, which felt like a fleeting moment beyond 1,400 years.

Standing at the main gate of Mireuksaji, the Mireuksaji site, now only traces remain beneath Mireuksan Mountain, and the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda standing proudly on one side caught the eye. Upon stepping in, ponds greeted on both sides. Willow trees hanging around the ponds swayed slowly in the breeze. These are the willows that hung over the Mireuksa pond 1,400 years ago.

The origin of King Mu’s construction of Mireuksaji is recorded in the Samguk Yusa. After Baekje’s King Beop died two years into his reign following a power struggle with the nobility, King Mu succeeded him.

According to Samguk Yusa, "One day, King Mu, accompanied by his wife, went to the temple Sajasa on Mireuksan Mountain to offer incense and discovered the Mireuk Triad statues in a large pond. King Mu stopped his palanquin and paid respects, then granted his wife’s wish to build a large temple here." Following his wife’s wish, the pond was filled in, and three pairs of pagodas and main halls were built. One pagoda and one main hall were erected in each of the three precincts: Dongwon, Jungwon, and Seowon. This was an unusual temple layout for the time. After about 1,400 years, only one pagoda remains: the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda (National Treasure No. 11), the largest and oldest stone pagoda in Korea.

The Geummaji, a local gazetteer of Iksan published in the 32nd year of King Yeongjo’s reign (1756), records about the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda: "Its height is about 10 jang (丈), and it is said to be the tallest stone pagoda in the East. The western half, struck by lightning, has deteriorated. Despite shaking, the large pagoda has not collapsed since then."

During the Japanese colonial period in 1915, the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda, which had partially collapsed, was repaired with concrete. Since then, the pagoda endured about 80 years bonded with concrete.

In 2009, during dismantling, a complete set of sarira relics was discovered at the base of the pagoda, astonishing everyone. A gold plate inscribed with the history of the pagoda’s construction and a small gold sarira reliquary with intricate patterns were found. Inside the gold reliquary was another smaller gold reliquary. Inside that were a broken glass bottle, 13 sarira relics, and over 9,900 artifacts. Deciphering the inscription on the gold plate clarified who built this massive stone pagoda, when, and for what purpose. The time unearthed after more than 1,400 years was incredibly vivid.

The work to reassemble the dismantled Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda began. The 13 sarira relics, which saw the light after 1,400 years, were placed back inside the pagoda. As a result of the longest restoration and repair period for a single cultural asset, lasting 20 years, the pagoda now stands tall at the Mireuksaji site. The stone pagoda, approximately 14.5 meters high, 12.5 meters wide, and weighing about 1,830 tons, incorporates wooden architectural techniques. Each tier’s corner pillars are slightly raised, and the roof curves softly, with the edges pointing toward the sky.

The National Iksan Museum, which reopened after expansion in January this year, is located at the lowest part of Mireuksaji. It exhibits the gold sarira reliquary (Treasure No. 1991) found at Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda, the gilt-bronze Buddha statue and bronze bell (National Treasure No. 123) discovered at Wanggung-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda, gilt-bronze shoes found in Ipjeom-ri tumulus, as well as sarira relics, crafts, and daily tools from the period.

Let’s also climb Mireuksan behind Mireuksaji. From the summit, you can see the panoramic view of the Mireuksaji site and the gently rolling hills of Iksan land. On the northern slope of Mireuksan is Mireuksanseong Fortress. Apart from records stating it was repaired six times until the Joseon Dynasty, there is no clue as to when it was originally built. However, local historians believe the fortress was constructed to defend Iksan centered around Mireuksaji during the Baekje period.

Near Mireuksaji is the Wanggung-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda. Though it lacks the grandeur of the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda, it stands with excellent proportions and a vigorous posture. It is said to have been modeled after the Mireuksaji Stone Pagoda, and its balance, proportions, delicate lines, and simple appearance evoke admiration at first glance.

The Five-story Stone Pagoda is beyond a forest of large cherry trees standing guard. Thus, this pagoda reaches its peak beauty when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. When pink cherry blossom petals fall like flower rain, the view of the pagoda through them is truly magnificent. Simply gazing quietly at the pagoda brings happiness. Even if the petals fall due to spring rain a few days earlier, the fresh green leaves sprouting where the flowers fell create a beautiful scene dyed in light green.

The charming appearance of the Wanggung-ri Stone Pagoda is completed by the care taken to neatly groom the surroundings and by leaving a few picturesque pine trees on the distant hills behind the pagoda like a painting. Thanks to this, strolling around the pagoda with cherry blossom petals fluttering in the spring sunlight allows one to imagine the ancient kingdom’s royal palace or the temple said to have been built behind it.

During restoration work from 1965 to the following year, relics poured out from the Wanggung-ri Stone Pagoda as well. Sarira reliquaries and sarira bottles, as well as a Diamond Sutra plate embossed on a gold plate, were discovered. The sarira reliquary, intricately carved with lotus and arabesque patterns, and the smooth, elegant green sarira bottle alone evoke admiration. Near the entrance to the Wanggung site, a relic exhibition hall has been built to display artifacts excavated nearby.

Iksan = Written and photographed by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Directions=Take the Honam Expressway and exit at Iksan Interchange, then take local road No. 720 and turn right at Geumma Intersection onto local road No. 722. Turn left in front of Geumma Township Office toward Mireuksaji. The Wanggung-ri Five-story Stone Pagoda is close by if you turn left at Geumma Intersection toward Wanggung Township.

△Food=Hwangdeung Bibimbap (photo) is considered a taste of Iksan. The rice is lightly mixed and warmed with meat broth, then the bowl is heated to dry the moisture before topping with raw beef. Shinsaengdae Restaurant is known for its Doenjang Jjajang, a unique black bean sauce mixed with fermented soybean paste in a certain ratio. It is mild and savory. There are several pig’s blood sausage specialty restaurants around Iksan Station.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.