[Jo Yongjun's Journey Manli] Slow and Steady Steps... The Scenery Comes Into View
Budget Yedangho Slow City Journey - Walking the Slow Lake Trail and Slow Kkoburang Trail Helps Forget COVID-19 Worries
Yedangho Neurin Hosugil is a waterside walking trail along the edge of the reservoir. The footsteps of walkers are endlessly leisurely, allowing one to feel happiness in the slow-moving scenery. The photos below show various landscapes you can encounter at Yedangho.
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Yedangho Suspension Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in Korea. It was closed due to COVID-19 but recently reopened.
View original image[Asia Economy, Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] The novel coronavirus infection (COVID-19) is still ongoing. We are full of desire to take off the masks that have become part of daily life and take a deep breath. Meanwhile, the seasons have changed. The fresh green deepens day by day, heading toward lush foliage. Travelmanri visited a place full of healing and comfort for bodies and minds tired from long periods of caution. It is Yesan-gun, the only Slow City in Chungnam Province. It is a place where slow travel is possible, as its name suggests, with the longest suspension bridge in Korea, the Yedangho Suspension Bridge, the Slow Lake Trail, and the Slow Curvy Trail. It is a great place to walk leisurely and feel relaxed, escaping the suffocating COVID-19. The previously restricted suspension bridge has also reopened.
◇Walking the longest Yedangho Suspension Bridge in Korea and the leisurely Slow Lake Trail
Yesan is home to Yedangho Lake. It is 3.7 times the size of Yeouido in Seoul and the largest reservoir in Korea. Circling around it exceeds 40 km. It is wide and blue like an 'inland sea.'
Yedangho is a famous fishing spot nationwide. Early in the morning, the water mist rising from the reservoir and the angler sitting on a red-tinted fishing platform in the morning sunlight create a leisurely scene. Numerous fishing platforms and duck blinds are installed along the reservoir’s edge. While crucian carp and carp are abundant, mainly snakehead fish, loaches, and mudfish are caught.
Last year, the longest suspension bridge in Korea was built at Yedangho. It is a 402-meter-long, 5-meter-wide suspension bridge that can hold about 3,000 adults (based on 70 kg per person) crossing simultaneously. It had been closed due to COVID-19 but reopened last week. At the entrance, body temperature is checked and mask-wearing is mandatory before entry is allowed. Crossing the suspension bridge cautiously, the swaying with each step is quite fun. Standing on the main tower observation deck in the middle of the bridge offers a panoramic view of the vast Yedangho and the beautiful surrounding scenery.
It is nice during the day, but even more enchanting at night. Against a sky dyed red, the bridge is lit with rainbow-colored lights that change moment by moment in red, blue, purple, and more. The musical fountain show adds to the enjoyment, presenting various concepts and shapes.
Besides the suspension bridge, Yedangho has a lakeside walking trail that is even better. The pontoon bridge and wooden deck lakeside trail around the suspension bridge offer a wonderful atmosphere. It is perfect for social distancing to avoid COVID-19. The trail is called the 'Slow Lake Trail.' It is a 5.4 km course connecting the suspension bridge to the Central Ecological Park.
The trail is a waterside walkway along the reservoir’s edge. In the relatively shallow waters, willows grow thickly. Trees half-submerged in water add a mysterious feel, like a primeval forest. On calm days, branches rising above the water reflect perfectly on the surface, creating a decalcomania-like image.
Among the dense branches, water rails swim leisurely, and egrets and herons stretch their necks waiting for fish. Occasionally, a white egret spreads its wings in the shaded forest, creating a breathtaking scene like a fairyland. The footsteps of travelers slow down endlessly. It is the happiness of life felt in a slow-paced landscape.
Yedangho is also home to willows called 'Golden Trees.' When the water level is full, they grow half-submerged. At sunset, the trees standing against the backlight on the water surface dyed entirely in sunset hues become a masterpiece the moment you raise your camera.
◇Once upon a time~ Walking the Slow Curvy Trail Course 1, the Old Story Trail, helps forget COVID-19
Slow City Daeheung encompasses the area around Yedangho. The center is the villages of Gyochon-ri, Dongseo-ri, and Sangjung-ri in Daeheung-myeon. The best way to travel Slow City Daeheung is to slowly enjoy it on foot. You can walk the 'Slow Curvy Trail,' which is divided into three courses. It is a path where you encounter the breath of life, nature, and history.
I walked Course 1 (5.1 km), the Old Story Trail. It starts and ends at the Slow City Visitor Center, passing the Tree Where a Boat Was Tied, Bongsusan Natural Recreation Forest, and Daeheung Dongheon. The village is not complicated enough to get lost, so you can explore as you please.
First, you meet the Tree Where a Boat Was Tied, a zelkova tree over 1,000 years old. It is famous as the tree where Tang Dynasty general Su Dingfang tied his boat when he came with the Tang-Silla allied forces to attack the Baekje restoration army. Then, passing Bongsusan Natural Recreation Forest, the path continues north toward Aegipokpo Waterfall. Imjonseong Fortress, the last stronghold of the Baekje restoration, is nearby.
Imjonseong Fortress is where Baekje refugees fought fiercely against the Tang-Silla allied forces until the end after Baekje’s fall. Perhaps due to anger over losing their families and the desire to rebuild their country, the restoration army once repelled over 100,000 Tang troops led by Su Dingfang and Silla soldiers with only stones and clubs.
The fortress, stretching along the mountain ridge, is grand and majestic. Besides the history it holds, the fortress itself is worth visiting. Climbing the stone fortress built like stairs, you stand on the towering stone walls. Walking along the walls, you can enjoy a spectacular view of Yedangho and the Daeheung-myeon area below. It is even more beautiful in the afternoon when the lake’s water sparkles.
Descending from Imjonseong, the path leads to the village. In the center of the village stands Daeheung Dongheon, the only remaining government office building in Yesan. Dongheon was where the local magistrate (now county governor) worked. It was built in 1407 and renovated in the mid-Joseon period. The gate with the signboard 'Imseong Amun (任城衙門)' and the Dongheon remain.
Leaving Dongheon, you can encounter a heartwarming story that has been in Korean language textbooks for over 30 years since 1964. It is the story of the 'Good Siblings,' who carried each other’s bundles of rice at midnight and met each other. The real protagonists, brothers Lee Seong-man and Lee Soon, bring the story of 'Brother First, Younger Brother First' as a true story rather than a legend. Next to the Daeheung-myeon Office stands the 'Yesan Lee Seong-man Brothers Filial Piety Monument.' In front of the office is the 'Good Siblings' statue, and at the village entrance is the 'Good Siblings Park.'
Course 2 of the Slow Curvy Trail is the 'Slow Path' (4.6 km), a path to listen to the wisdom of nature and discover the meaning of living slowly. Course 3 is the 'Love Path' (3.3 km), named after a 600-year-old ginkgo tree in front of Daeheung Hyanggyo Confucian School. The ginkgo tree’s nickname is 'Love Tree.' A zelkova tree’s roots have grown into it, living as one for 150 years.
Yesan = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@
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◆Travel Notes
▲Getting there= To reach Yedangho by car from the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Seohaean Expressway, then transfer to the Dangjin-Yeongdeok Expressway at the Dangjin Junction, and exit at the Yesan Sudeoksa Interchange. It is about a 10-minute drive along Guksabong-ro and Yedang Tourist Road.
▲Food= There are many restaurants serving fish stew (eojuk) and steamed crucian carp around Yedangho. Gwangsi Amso Hanwoo Village boasts over 30 years of tradition. It has formed a town due to word of mouth about its tender meat and affordable prices. In Sapgyo-eup, there are many restaurants specializing in beef head soup (somerigukbap) (photo) and grilled pork intestines. Hanil Restaurant’s beef head soup draws you in with its mild broth. Near the entrance to Sudeoksa Temple, many restaurants serve mountain vegetable set meals and bibimbap.
▲Attractions= Chusa Old House, Stork Park, Deoksan Hot Springs, Resort Spa Castle, Sudeoksa Temple, Sudeok Inn, Chungui-sa Shrine, and Lee Nam-gyu Old House are among the attractions.
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