The recently launched 'Royal Pop Collection', a collaboration between the Swiss watch brand Swatch and luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet, is making waves around the world. People are camping out in front of stores for a week in advance for the so-called 'open run', 'line sitters' are being paid to hold spots in line, and resellers aiming for markups are adding to the chaos.

In Paris, France, tear gas was deployed; in Milan, Italy, fistfights broke out. In Chicago, USA, police were called as crowds pounded on store glass doors, and commotion continued. Analysts say that the combination of limited-edition hype and an overheated resale market has even triggered speculative demand.

Swatch x Audemars Piguet Resale Product. Naver Capture

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According to foreign media such as The Wall Street Journal (WSJ) on May 20 (local time), Swatch recently launched the 'Royal Pop Collection', a collaboration with Audemars Piguet, simultaneously worldwide. This product is based on the signature Audemars Piguet 'Royal Oak' design, reinterpreted with pop art aesthetics in the form of a pocket watch. It is designed to be used in various ways, such as a necklace pendant, bag accessory, or desk clock. The price is set at $400–420 per piece (approximately 600,000–630,000 won), which is a relatively low entry barrier compared to Audemars Piguet watches that cost tens of millions of won.

On the 15th (local time), citizens are waiting to enter the Swatch store in Times Square, New York, USA, ahead of the launch of the Audemars Piguet x Swatch 'Royal Oak' watch. Photo by AFP Yonhap News

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The market response was heated even before the launch. As reviews calling it a “historic collaboration” spread across social media, long queues began to form in front of flagship stores in major cities like New York, London, Paris, and Tokyo a week ahead of the release. Some consumers brought camping chairs and blankets to spend the night, indicating the feverish atmosphere.

On the 15th (local time), the Audemars Piguet x Swatch 'Royal Pop' watch was displayed inside the Swatch store showcase in Times Square, New York, USA. Photo by AFP Yonhap News

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The confusion peaked on the day of the release. Since Swatch only sold the watches in offline stores, without online pre-orders or scheduled pickup systems, demand surged all at once. Rumors of limited quantities quickly spread, and the mood turned tense in an instant.

In Milan, Italy, buyers and resellers became entangled in physical altercations, prompting police to disperse the crowds. At a store near Paris, France, police used tear gas after hundreds gathered. In Chicago and New York, shoppers were seen trying to breach barricades to enter stores, and there were even reports of arrests in some areas. Amid the chaos, medical emergencies occurred, with ambulances dispatched, raising safety concerns.

As the situation escalated, some stores in Dubai canceled their launch events altogether, while certain stores in Europe and the United States temporarily closed. Swatch eventually issued a notice asking customers not to flock en masse to stores to purchase the product.

Citizens are waiting to enter the store in front of the Swatch store for the release of the Audemars Piguet x Swatch 'Royal Oak' watch. Screenshot from SNS

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The predominant analysis is that the overheated resale market is at the root of this situation. On secondhand trading platforms, products with a retail price of around $400 have surged to several thousand dollars, selling at dozens of times the original price.

Some models were priced close to $9,000, and full sets commanded quotes exceeding tens of thousands of dollars. As the collection came to be perceived as an “investment product” promising significant short-term returns, demand amplified even further.

In the United States, “line sitters” who stand in line for others for a fee have even appeared. Services offering to hold a place in line by the hour have contributed to the phenomenon, drawing comparisons to past iPhone launches or limited-edition sneaker frenzies.

Swatch appears to be actively capitalizing on the controversy. The company stated, “The response to the Royal Pop Collection has been phenomenal worldwide,” adding, “Our content has surpassed 11 billion views on social media, and our website has seen millions of visits.” The company further explained that “the product will continue to be sold for several months.”