Wine Loved by Romans... Rediscovered in the Ashes of Pompei

Editor's NoteNo two wines are ever the same under the sky. Even when grapes are grown on the same land and vinified and aged in the same way each year, the results are always different. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine, which disappears silently after leaving behind just one intense memory, holds its own fascinating story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' brings you one by one the stories of wines that are crafted and matured under their own unique circumstances.

Wine Story Italy's 'Mastroberardino'

Leading Winery of Campania, Italy

Pompei Wine Restoration Project

Grape cultivation using the same methods as 2,000 years ago

Release of 'Villa dei Misteri 2001' wine in 2003

The wine most cherished by the Romans came from 'Campania Felix,' which means 'fertile land.' This region, where ancient Greeks once crossed the sea to build the new city of 'Neapolis,' has retained the name 'Campania' to this day and has become the heart of southern Italy, with Neapolis growing into 'Napoli,' the largest city in the region.

In 1996, the Italian government launched an effort to restore the wines once treasured by Romans in Pompei, where time had stood still. The 'Villa dei Misteri' project, meaning 'Villa of Mysteries,' aimed to recreate the vineyards, grape varieties, cultivation techniques, and winemaking methods of the region before the volcanic eruption. The restoration team analyzed soil traces on vine roots and DNA from grape seeds found in volcanic ash, revealing that the wines of that era were made from the ancient varieties 'Piedirosso' and 'Sciascinoso.' They then cultivated and vinified grapes using the same methods as 2,000 years ago, releasing the 'Villa dei Misteri 2001' wine in 2003. Most of these wines were sold at auction, with the proceeds used to fund research for wine-producing regions in Campania, including Pompei.

Wine bar excavated in Pompei.

The 'Grape Archaeologist' Who Revived Ancient Wines

The Villa dei Misteri project, which uncovered the secrets of ancient Italian wine, owed much to the role of the winery 'Mastroberardino.' The Mastroberardino family has been engaged in wine production in the Campania region for centuries. The modern history of the winery began in 1878, when Angelo Mastroberardino, a knight of the Kingdom of Italy, officially registered the winery with the Avellino Chamber of Commerce.

Later, Angelo's son Michele focused on wine exports through a logistics company he established in Rome, and his son Antonio became renowned as a 'grape archaeologist' for reviving numerous ancient grape varieties and also led the Pompei project.

(From the left) Angelo Mastroberardino, founder of Mastroberardino, and his son Michele Mastroberardino.

The current owner of Mastroberardino, Piero Mastroberardino.

Today, Piero Mastroberardino leads the winery, succeeding his father Antonio. Since taking over as CEO in 1996, Piero has expanded the vineyards to 260 hectares, invested in modern production facilities, achieved annual production of over two million bottles, and exports to 50 countries.

Since 2015, he has served as the president of 'Istituto Grandi Marchi,' an association of Italy's premium wine producers. Founded in 2004, Istituto Grandi Marchi is a consortium of prestigious Italian wine families, including 'Antinori,' 'Masi,' 'Tenuta San Guido,' 'Donnafugata,' and 'Michele Chiarlo.' This May, he was also awarded the 'Cavaliere del Lavoro,' a knighthood given to 25 entrepreneurs each year for their significant contributions to Italy's economy and industry, following in his father's footsteps.

Nobility Born from Volcanoes... 'Fiano' and 'Greco'

Campania enjoys hot, dry summers and mild winters, resulting in a long growing season for grapes. The volcanic soil also provides excellent protection against pests such as phylloxera. Breezes from the Mediterranean cross the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennine Mountains, cooling the heat and helping to promote acidity in the grapes. In particular, the inland region of Irpinia, located at altitudes of 400 to 700 meters above sea level, experiences significant temperature differences between day and night, which is a key factor in enhancing acidity and aromatic complexity in the grapes.

Irpinia is the wine region in the eastern inland area of Avellino in Campania, home to the region's three major DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita) appellations. DOCG is a grade given to wines produced in outstanding regions guaranteed by the Italian government, with strict regulations on permitted grape varieties, cultivation, and vinification methods. Mastroberardino's history began when the first winery was established in the village of Atripalda, at the heart of Avellino.

Panoramic view of Mastroberardino's 'Fiano di Avellino DOCG' vineyard.

Mastroberardino's signature green grape variety 'Fiano'.

Until the 20th century, Campania relied so heavily on Mastroberardino that the winery accounted for over half of the region's DOC wine production and more than 90% of 'Taurasi DOCG' wine. However, in the latter part of the 20th century, modernization and focused investment in vineyard management, harvesting methods, and winemaking technology improved wine quality, leading to overall industry growth. Today, the region has more than 100 wineries.

Both red and white wines are produced in Campania, but among the whites, 'Fiano di Avellino DOCG' and 'Greco di Tufo DOCG' are particularly outstanding. These two DOCG wines, made from the 'Fiano' and 'Greco' varieties respectively, are produced at high altitudes in a cool climate thanks to the hilly terrain, resulting in excellent acidity.

Fiano di Avellino is a white wine produced on the high hills surrounding the village of Avellino, west of Taurasi. Fiano is a variety that traditionally reaches very high sugar levels, making temperature control during alcoholic fermentation difficult. As a result, the wine used to contain carbon dioxide, but Mastroberardino was the first to produce it as a dry wine, leading the modernization of the variety. Fiano di Avellino is rich in mineral character due to the volcanic soil, and is characterized by nutty aromas and ripe fruit flavors.

'Radici Fiano di Avellino DOCG' is a 100% Fiano wine produced from the single vineyard 'Santo Stefano del Sole,' selected after research into the terroir most suitable for Fiano among Mastroberardino's vineyards. It is recognized as the wine that established Fiano as a noble white wine of Campania, and is notable for its purity of the Fiano variety without oak aging, offering excellent acidity and a smooth, full-bodied texture. It also boasts an impressive aging potential of 10 to 20 years or more.

Greco di Tufo is a small DOCG just above Fiano di Avellino, producing white wines with deep mineral notes thanks to apple peel aromas and volcanic tuff. 'Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo DOCG' is a fresh, well-structured wine that exemplifies the typicity of the Greco variety. The clay-limestone and volcanic soils of Tufo impart minerality to the wine, resulting in yellow fruit, mineral, and almond aromas, and a fresh, well-structured profile that pairs well with a variety of foods.

'Radici Fiano di Avellino DOCG'

The Pride of Southern Italy's Indigenous Variety: 'Taurasi'

While both Fiano and Greco showcase the high quality of Campania wines, the region's signature and most prestigious variety is ultimately the indigenous red grape 'Aglianico.' Aglianico forms the foundation of Taurasi, one of the most renowned red wine DOCGs in southern Italy. It has an earthy hue and offers aromas and flavors of bittersweet chocolate, leather, and tar. It is also the variety behind the longest-aging wines of southern Italy.

Taurasi, where the finest Aglianico is produced, is the heart of Mastroberardino. Until the early 1990s, Mastroberardino was the only producer exporting Taurasi wines abroad. Aglianico thrives at high altitudes, and Taurasi's vineyards are typically located at elevations of 300 to 400 meters or more. During his recent visit to Korea, Piero Mastroberardino said, "Mastroberardino's Taurasi vineyards, located at an altitude of 700 meters, allow for a longer aging period than other vineyards," adding, "Even with harvest times moving earlier due to climate change, we still harvest in November." He emphasized, "This results in high tannins and great structure, making the wine excellent for long-term aging."

Mastroberardino's flagship red grape variety 'Aglianico'

According to DOCG regulations, Taurasi must contain at least 85% Aglianico and have a minimum legal alcohol content of 12%. It must be aged for at least 36 months, with at least 12 months in oak barrels. For Taurasi Riserva, the minimum alcohol content is higher at 12.5%, with a minimum aging period of 48 months, including at least 18 months in oak barrels.

While other wineries in Campania have turned to international varieties, Mastroberardino has continued its relentless research and passion for indigenous varieties, culminating in its flagship wine, 'Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi DOCG Riserva.' 'Radici' means 'roots,' symbolizing Mastroberardino's deep passion for the preservation and revival of the Aglianico variety, the root of Campania.

Radici Taurasi Riserva is made from 100% Aglianico, carefully selected from the highest-altitude plots of the 'Montemarano' vineyard, which features clay soils with limestone. The wine has a dark ruby color with garnet hues, and impressive aromas of red cherry, black pepper, balsamic, dried herbs, licorice, leather, and smoke. With exceptional complexity, a long finish, and great aging potential, it is the icon wine of both Taurasi and Mastroberardino.