Italian luxury brand Prada is facing controversy after introducing a design that closely resembles traditional Indian sandals. As criticism grew over allegations that Prada was attempting to profit commercially by appropriating Indian traditional culture without permission, the company has acknowledged that the design is indeed inspired by Indian tradition.

Sandals worn by a male model at last month's Prada fashion show

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According to the BBC on June 29 (local time), Prada has admitted that its recently unveiled footwear design was inspired by traditional Indian sandals, specifically Kolhapuri chappals, following criticism that the design closely resembles them.

The sandals in question were revealed last week at Milan Fashion Week. Observers pointed out that the design, featuring a separated big toe and braided leather pattern, is similar to the traditional Kolhapuri chappal sandals produced in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India.

Prada introduced the sandals as leather footwear but made no mention of referencing traditional Indian shoes, leading to criticism within India that the company had appropriated traditional culture without authorization.

The new sandals unveiled by Prada have been pointed out to resemble the traditional Kolhapuri chappal sandals made in Maharashtra, India, featuring a separated big toe and braided leather pattern design.

The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce previously sent a letter to Prada protesting that the craftsmanship preserved over generations was ignored and commercialized without any mention.

In response, Prada stated, "We acknowledge that these sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear."

In response, Prada stated in a statement sent to the BBC, "We acknowledge that these sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear." A Prada spokesperson added, "Prada has always respected craftsmanship, heritage, and design traditions," and noted, "We are in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce regarding this matter."

The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce had previously sent a letter to Prada, protesting that the craftsmanship preserved over generations was ignored and commercialized without any acknowledgment.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), told a media outlet that "these sandals are still in the early design stage," and that "we are open to meaningful dialogue with local Indian artisans and will hold further meetings in the future."

Kolhapuri sandals are named after the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where they are produced, and are believed to have been made since around the 12th century. Made from leather, they are durable and well-suited to India’s hot climate. In 2019, these sandals received Geographical Indication (GI) certification from the Indian government. GI is a system that officially recognizes that a particular product originates from a specific region.

As the controversy intensified, artisans in the Kolhapur region expressed regret that Prada had used the traditional design without permission. Kolhapuri artisan Prabha Satpute told the BBC Marathi edition, "These sandals are the result of the hard work of Kolhapur’s leather artisans," and added, "These sandals should bear the name of Kolhapur. Do not exploit the labor of others."

Prada has not disclosed the price of these sandals, but other sandals from the brand are priced between 600 and 1,000 pounds (approximately 1.11 million to 1.86 million won) in the UK. In India, Kolhapuri chappals can be purchased for several hundred rupees, or around 10,000 won. Indian entrepreneur Harsh Goenka pointed out, "Local artisans earn almost nothing, while global brands profit by exploiting our culture."