A Bowl of Naengmyeon Nears 20,000 Won... Even Affordable Meals Now Cause Sticker Shock
Woraeok Raises Price from 16,000 Won to 18,000 Won This Month
Overall Upward Trend in Dining-out Prices Continues
The price of a bowl of Pyongyang Naengmyeon is now approaching 20,000 won. As major long-established restaurants in Seoul raise their prices, a wave of price hikes is spreading throughout the dining-out sector. With the peak summer season approaching, analysts say that the price increases of Naengmyeon, followed by staple dishes such as Kalguksu, Gimbap, and Samgyeopsal, are pushing up perceived consumer prices.
According to the industry on April 17, Woraeok, a renowned Pyongyang Naengmyeon restaurant in Jung-gu, Seoul, raised the price of its Pyongyang Naengmyeon by 12.5% (2,000 won), from 16,000 won to 18,000 won per bowl starting this month. If four people each order a bowl, the total comes to 72,000 won. If two servings of Bulgogi are added, the meal easily exceeds 150,000 won. Some consumers now react by saying, "It's a dish you really have to make up your mind to eat." Considering the current hourly minimum wage (10,320 won), one would need to add 8,000 won more to afford a single bowl of Naengmyeon.
Among Seoul's "four major long-established Pyongyang Naengmyeon restaurants," Eulmildae has maintained its Naengmyeon price at 16,000 won after raising it by 1,000 won in March last year. Similarly, Pildong Myeonok increased its price from 14,000 won to 15,000 won last year. Eulji Myeonok, which had halted business for two years due to redevelopment, reopened in 2024 in Nakwon-dong, Jongno-gu, and raised its price from 13,000 won to 15,000 won, maintaining that price since reopening.
The upward trend in Naengmyeon prices is attributed to rising costs of ingredients, such as meat for broth, as well as increases in labor costs. According to the Livestock Products Quality Evaluation Institute, the wholesale price of beef brisket (per 100g) was 6,503 won, up 11.1% from 5,849 won the previous year. The price of pork shoulder (per 100g) also rose by 7.8% to 1,513 won. However, the price of buckwheat, the main ingredient, has declined. According to the Agricultural Products Distribution Information System, the wholesale price of buckwheat—the main ingredient in Pyongyang Naengmyeon—was 3,025 won per kilogram as of April 16, down 8% compared to one year ago.
Overall, dining-out prices are showing an upward trend. According to "Chamga-gyeok," the integrated price information portal of the Korea Consumer Agency, the average price of Kalguksu in Seoul exceeded 10,000 won for the first time last month, reaching 10,038 won. Even Kalguksu, once considered a representative affordable meal, has entered the "10,000-won era." Other dining-out items are also on the rise. Bibimbap was priced at 11,615 won, up about 1.7% from April last year (11,423 won). Kimchi stew set meals rose from 8,500 won to 8,654 won, Jajangmyeon from 7,500 won to 7,692 won, and Gimbap from 3,623 won to 3,800 won. In terms of percentage increase, Gimbap rose more than 5%, showing a relatively significant hike, while Jajangmyeon increased by over 2%.
The price increases are not limited to meat dishes and health food. Samgyeopsal (after conversion) rose from 20,447 won to 21,218 won, and Samgyetang increased from 17,500 won to 18,154 won. Fluctuations in raw material prices due to global geopolitical instability, as well as increases in labor costs and public utility charges such as electricity and gas, are cited as major factors driving up dining-out costs. According to the National Statistical Portal and consumer price trends, the service price index for the first quarter of this year was 115.96 (with 2020 as the base year at 100), up 2.4% from the same period last year. The price index for personal services, including dining-out, rose by 3.2%, maintaining a 3% range for five consecutive quarters since the first quarter of last year (3.1%).
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An industry insider in the dining-out sector stated, "Until last year, we hesitated to raise prices out of concern for losing customers. However, the accumulated burden of increased costs has now reached a level that is difficult to endure," adding, "The trend of rising dining-out prices is likely to continue for the time being."
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