[Following the King's Man Through Exile Sites] Ink Fragrance Born of Solitude... Exile Culture Blossoms into Southern School Painting
Revisiting Exile Sites in Namdo Amid the "King Man" Craze
The Roots of Namdo's Artistic Heritage Cultivated by Sochi Heo Ryeon and His Mentors
Scenery and Facility Management Praised... Content Linkage Remains a Challenge
"We Will
The film "The Man Who Lives with the King" has surpassed 14 million viewers, sparking a "banishment culture" phenomenon in Korea. The isolation and despair faced by those exiled from the center of power to the periphery were paradoxically transformed into great scholarship and art within the generous embrace of the Namdo region. The Honam Bureau of The Asia Business Daily goes beyond the narrative of the film to revisit key places of exile in Gwangju and Jeollanam-do, where the breath of real history still lingers. Over the course of six articles, we will closely examine the scholarly spirit that turned barren land into a cradle of hope, and highlight the value of exile culture, which became the root of today’s "land of the arts," Namdo.
On the afternoon of the 24th, citizens are freely visiting Unrimsanbang located in Uisin-myeon, Jindo-gun, Jeollanam-do. Photo by Min Hyunki
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The solitude of a barren place of exile sometimes becomes the soil for the most splendid blossoms of art. Just as the protagonist of "The Man Who Lives with the King" (hereafter "King's Man") grows by confronting his inner self in complete isolation from the world, Jindo, at the southern tip of the Joseon Dynasty, gave birth to the unique culture of "Yehyang" (the land of the arts), where the tears and ink of countless exiles mingled. At the center of this stands "Unrimsanbang," renowned as the sacred ground of Southern School painting, along with Sochi Heo Ryeon who created it, and the exiled intellectuals who inspired him artistically.
Ink Fragrance Under Cloudy Skies... An Afternoon at Unrimsanbang
On the afternoon of the 24th, we visited Unrimsanbang in Sacheon-ri, Uisin-myeon, Jindo-gun, Jeollanam-do. Nestled at the foot of Cheomchal Mountain, the name itself means "the mist forms a forest like clouds." Despite being a weekday afternoon and somewhat cloudy, a steady stream of visitors at the entrance spoke to the enthusiasm for Namdo’s humanities tours, fueled by the "King's Man" phenomenon.
The crepe myrtle reflected in the "Sochi Pond" and the neatly manicured lawn created a serene and mysterious atmosphere, reminiscent of the blank spaces in a freshly painted ink wash painting. This is where Sochi Heo Ryeon returned after the death of his mentor, Chusa Kim Jeonghui, built a thatched cottage, and stayed. The wind blowing from the dense evergreen forest behind the studio seemed to carry both the loneliness of exiles and the dedication of artists.
View of Unlim Sanbang located in Uisin-myeon, Jindo-gun, Jeollanam-do. Photo by Min Hyunki
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The Literati Influence from Hanyang Brought by Exiles... Awakening the Island Boy Heo Ryeon
During the Joseon Dynasty, Jindo was an "island of exile" that countless politicians and scholars passed through. Although their bodies were confined, the refined literati painting style and academic insight they brought from Hanyang were, ironically, condensed with greater intensity within the closed space of the island.
Monk Cho-ui, who was exiled to Jindo at the time, and his acquaintance Chusa Kim Jeonghui, accepted the unknown painter from the island, Heo Ryeon, as his disciple, calling him "Sochi" (the slightly obsessed one). Even while enduring the severe hardship of exile in Jeju, Chusa cherished Heo Ryeon's talent and generously passed on his calligraphy and painting techniques and artistic philosophy.
Chusa's high praise, "There is no one east of the Amnok River who can rival Sochi," went beyond mere affection for his disciple, expressing his conviction in the artistic achievements born from the isolation of exile. Sochi crossed the rough seas multiple times to meet his mentor in Jeju, and through those arduous journeys, witnessed how the loneliness of exiles could be transformed into artistic skill.
"Facility Management is Perfect"... Tourists Praise, but Express Regrets
The view of Unlim Sanbang located in Uisin-myeon, Jindo-gun, Jeollanam-do. Unlim Sanbang is the art studio where Sochi Heo Ryeon, a master of southern painting during the Joseon Dynasty, spent his later years. Photo by Min Hyunki
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Visitors encountered on site that day unanimously praised the beautiful scenery and meticulous upkeep of Unrimsanbang. Lee, a 45-year-old from Gwangju who visited with his family, repeatedly exclaimed, "Wow, they did a great job," expressing his satisfaction: "Everything from the lawn to the landscaping is really well maintained overall. It's a great place to bring parents, and it's so well organized that it's also perfect for couples' dates."
However, there were also sharp criticisms that, compared to the excellent "hardware," the "software" and promotion were lacking. Park, a 38-year-old tourist from the Seoul metropolitan area, said, "With facilities and history like this, it should be a famous spot nationwide, but I didn't really know about it because publicity is lacking." He added, "It's certainly attractive even for people from the Seoul area, but it's disappointing that its recognition is low."
Particularly, a major issue pointed out was the lack of surrounding content to complement Unrimsanbang alone. One visitor remarked, "If you only come here, it's a bit disappointing, and if you want to have a meal, it's hard to find a suitable place close by. When you look for good restaurants or related facilities, you end up having to go to nearby cities like Mokpo, so there aren't enough things to enjoy within Jindo itself."
Jindo County: "We Will Build Linked Infrastructure and Strengthen Aggressive Marketing"
In response to such feedback from the field, a Jindo County official stated that they are preparing measures to maximize the value of Unrimsanbang. The official said, "Because Unrimsanbang embodies the essence of Namdo art, we are doing our utmost to maintain the best possible environment for visitors," adding, "We are well aware of the shortcomings in promotion and in food-related connections."
He continued, "We are currently working to develop the area around Unrimsanbang not just as a sightseeing spot, but as a hub for longer stays. We plan to establish a tourism belt within Jindo where accommodation and sightseeing can be enjoyed together, minimizing inconvenience for visitors."
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