[Akyung Wine Cellar] The Aesthetics and Flavors of Tuscan Aestheticism

<33> Italy’s “Castello Pomino”
Founded in 1308: Tuscany’s Historic Wine Group
Pomino, a Prestigious White Wine House Forged by Altitude
Benefizio, Italy’s First Oak-Aged Chardonnay

Editor's NoteNo two wines are ever the same under the sky. Even when grapes grown on the same land are vinified and aged in the same way each year, the result is always different. Wine is a ‘drink of serendipity’ born from the harmony of nature and humanity. Each wine, disappearing quietly after leaving behind a single vivid memory, carries its own intriguing story. ‘Akyung Wine Cellar’ brings you tales of wines, each crafted and matured under unique circumstances, one by one.

A ceiling mural inside Castello Pomino.
[Photo by Frescobaldi]

Regarded as one of the oldest wine producers in Italy, Frescobaldi is an aesthete who seeks to touch the essence of life through the senses. They believe that the pleasure of flavors and taste, and the small joys these sensations bring, are intimately connected to the core of life.

Long ago, they were captivated by Tuscany, which embodied both beauty and virtue for them. Capturing the terroir of Tuscany in a single bottle of wine was seen as both a pursuit of beauty and an act of goodness. This is the reason their passion for winemaking has remained unchanged for centuries.

Vineyard view of Castello Pomino. [Photo by Frescobaldi]

700 Years of Aesthetics in a Glass of Wine

Before becoming a wine producer, Frescobaldi was a noble family with significant political and economic influence. Around the year 1000, the cities of central and northern Italy experienced remarkable advances in politics, economy, and finance as the feudal system collapsed. Drawn by the commercial and political advantages of densely populated urban areas, noble families began settling in the cities. It was during this period that the Frescobaldi family moved from Val di Pesa in the Chianti region to Florence, marking the beginning of their prominent history.

After settling in Florence, the Frescobaldi family initially started in the textile business and later expanded into finance. Having accumulated wealth through finance, they began wine production in 1308. At that time, wine was not just an agricultural product but a symbol of a family’s social status and political influence, and their wines naturally found a place in aristocratic society. Florence, being the center of European finance and culture, still holds contracts showing that Frescobaldi supplied wine not only to artists like Michelangelo and Donatello, but also to Henry VIII of England.

Winery building of Castello Pomino.
[Photo by Frescobaldi]

The modernization of the winery began in 1855, following the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Vittorio Frescobaldi, the family leader at the time, was the first to introduce and plant French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay in the Chianti region. This would later serve as the prototype for the ‘Super Tuscan,’ marking a pivotal moment in Italian wine history.

In the mid-20th century, Leonardo Frescobaldi led the family and began actively combining international grape varieties with modern winemaking techniques. At the same time, they focused on diversity, building a portfolio that reflected the terroir of each area in Tuscany. Today, Frescobaldi owns nine wineries in Tuscany, including Tenuta Castiglioni, Tenuta CastelGiocondo, Castello Nipozzano, and Remole. They directly manage and oversee approximately 1,200 hectares of vineyards, producing consistently high-quality wines.

Nine wineries of Frescobaldi located in Tuscany, Italy. [Source=Frescobaldi]

"Elegance Comes from Altitude"

Tuscany is renowned for its bold red wines centered on Sangiovese, Italy’s flagship grape variety, often leaving white wines in the background. However, even among these great reds, there are white wines that shine. Castello Pomino, described as ‘the soul of Burgundy in the heart of Chianti,’ is a prime example. As one of Frescobaldi’s nine wineries, Castello Pomino is known as the ‘hidden gem of Tuscany’ and has established a clear identity as a prestigious producer of white wines.

Pomino, where the winery is located, has been owned by the Frescobaldi family since the 1500s and was renowned for its exceptional location even then. In 1716, Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, officially designated Pomino as one of Tuscany’s four noble wine regions, alongside Chianti, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra.

Castello Fomino's Wine
Photo by Frescobaldi

Castello Pomino is best represented by the slogan, “Elegance comes from altitude.” This is not merely a marketing phrase, but a succinct summary of Pomino’s terroir and winemaking philosophy. Located about 30 kilometers northeast of Florence on the southern slopes of the Apennine Mountains, Pomino’s vineyards are situated at an altitude of 700 meters-over 200 meters higher than the average elevation (250-400m) of the Chianti region.

This high altitude allows the grapes to receive ample sunlight during the day, while temperatures drop sharply at night, ensuring the grapes do not become overly sweet and that their acidity is preserved. The altitude also creates a diurnal temperature variation of about 15 degrees Celsius, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly while retaining acidity. This slow maturation process enhances aromatic complexity and delicate texture, resulting in the elegant character that Frescobaldi wines are known for.

Vineyard view of Castello Pomino. [Photo by Frescobaldi]

The combination of clay-limestone-based Alberese and marl-limestone Galestro soils also contributes to the production of elegant, highly mineral wines. The lower layer of Alberese and the middle layer of Galestro offer excellent drainage and limited nutrients, encouraging the vines to develop deep roots and endure stress, resulting in concentrated juice and thick-skinned grapes. Grapes that reflect the mineral composition and drainage of the soil provide the foundation for wines that leave a lingering, salty mineral finish on the sides of the tongue.

Vineyard view of Castello Pomino. [Photo by Frescobaldi]

Benefizio: A Tuscan Masterpiece with the Soul of Burgundy

'Pomino Benefizio Riserva'

Pomino Benefizio Riserva is the epitome of refined elegance born from Pomino’s altitude. Pomino was the first winery in Tuscany to plant Chardonnay and the first in Italy to produce a white wine aged in oak barrels. Benefizio is the wine that embodies both of these milestones. First produced in 1973, Benefizio is made from 100% Chardonnay and is regarded as the perfect collaboration between the delicate touch of Burgundy and 700 years of Tuscan winemaking tradition.

The 2023 vintage, in particular, marks Benefizio’s 50th anniversary and is a clear, refined wine that captures the characteristic freshness of the Pomino region. It boasts a brilliant straw color with golden highlights. The intense and complex aroma offers rich fruit notes reminiscent of ripe white peaches and pears, complemented by a subtle spiciness with sweet spice undertones. The wine is long on the palate and highly structured, with a dreamy quality that lingers throughout the tasting, leaving a pleasant and clean finish.

'Pomono Vinsanto'

While Benefizio is the signature wine of Castello Pomino, the most widely recognized white wine in Tuscany is Vin Santo. Traditionally, Vin Santo grapes are pressed during Easter, and the wine’s name means ‘holy wine’ because it has been used for centuries by Italian clergy during Mass. The grapes are dried for three to six months to evaporate moisture and concentrate sugars. After drying, the grapes are crushed and mixed with ‘Madre’-a thick residue left from the previous batch. The mixture is then sealed in small barrels and aged with the must in a warm attic known as a ‘Vinsantaia’ for several years, where it ferments slowly.

Pomino also produces a top-quality Vin Santo with intense and complex flavors through a long drying and aging process. The latest vintage, Pomono Vinsanto 2018, is a blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia Bianca Toscana, and San Colombano, and is aged for seven years. This splendid amber-colored wine is characterized by a diverse bouquet, from ripe fruit aromas to notes of walnut, hazelnut, nutmeg, and star anise. On the palate, it achieves a perfect harmony between acidity and sweet flavors.

Aging cellar of Castello Pomino. [Photo by Frescobaldi]