[How About This Book] Even One Proper Meal... "Finally Tried It" Enjoying It Like a Game
Introduction to Key Trends in K-Foodservice
Analysis of Reasons Behind Food Culture Boom
Waiting 3-4 Hours to Eat Bagels
Thrill of Achievement After Hard-Earned Meal
Desire to Show Off 'Secret' Restaurants and Menu Items
For Koreans, the power of a meal is an extremely important value. Greetings often include phrases like "Have you eaten?" or "Have you had your meal?" to the extent that replacing the phrase ‘clothing, food, and shelter’ with ‘food, clothing, and shelter’ would not disrupt the order of importance. Even family members are called ‘sikgu,’ meaning those who share a meal together. The so-called ‘mukbang,’ a trend that might be hard to understand overseas, is popular content domestically. For the Korean people who find ‘fun’ even in watching others eat, food is undoubtedly a very important element.
In this regard, Dining Industry Trends in the Republic of Korea (Moksae) sharply examines various aspects of domestic dining industry trends. The book was written by a team led by Professor Kim Nando of the Consumer Science Department at Seoul National University’s College of Human Ecology, famous for the Trend Korea series. While Trend Korea analyzes overall societal trend types, this book selects and organizes only the "trend information essential for small business owners." The initiative came from the delivery platform ‘Baedal Minjok,’ which wanted to convey key dining industry trends to self-employed business owners. Based on big data accumulated by Baedal Minjok, seven dining industry trends were identified.
The first trend is ‘My Precious One Meal.’ While meals can sometimes be just about satisfying hunger for survival, the authors analyze a recent trend of wanting to ‘eat properly even for one meal.’ Although life’s pressures may force people to just get by with meals, there is a psychological desire to occasionally have one properly prepared meal. A real example is the hotel mango shaved ice priced at 100,000 won. The ‘Apple Mango Bingsu’ sold at The Library in the Shilla Hotel Seoul was 98,000 won as of June, up more than 10,000 won from 83,000 won a year earlier, yet the waiting time exceeds one hour. The ‘Jeju Apple Mango Garden Bingsu’ at the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul in Jongno-gu costs 126,000 won but continues to attract customers. Many choose these for the satisfaction of having truly enjoyed a meal. Similarly, a 30,000 won jajangmyeon (black bean noodles) more expensive than sweet and sour pork at the Apgujeong Chinese restaurant ‘Mutan,’ and premium gourmet menus from ‘Hansot,’ known for cost-effective lunchboxes, are examples in the same context.
Not hesitating to stand in line is also a new trend. Waiting in line is usually considered a hardship to achieve a goal, but the lines in front of famous restaurants are closer to the saying ‘No pain, no gain.’ The ‘London Bagel Museum’ in Jongno, Seoul, is a representative example. Social media is filled with posts saying "I finally ate after waiting a long time." The authors analyze, "Waiting in line for 3 to 4 hours is not considered a waste of time. Rather, after a long wait, when you finally get to use the restaurant, paradoxically, you gain greater satisfaction."
At ‘Jangin The,’ a caf? opened by artisan Jangin Hangwa in Pocheon, Gyeonggi Province, which sparked a nationwide boom of ‘Yakting’ (Yakgwa + Piceting), crowds gather from 7 a.m. to buy the so-called ‘ugly yakgwa’ damaged during production. For them, buying yakgwa is like completing a mission in a game. The authors explain, "Waiting in line visually represents the effort people put in and the sense of accomplishment they gain. The moment you enter the restaurant and eat the food, the effort you invested is finally converted into results." They add, "Unlike the older generation who said ‘Don’t play with food,’ the emergence of a new generation that ‘plays freely with food’ has brought a new breeze to the dining industry." To maintain this satisfaction, many restaurants do not open branches or franchises, and some close when a certain time or prepared ingredients run out, even if there are many customers. The strategy is to build a brand that lasts longer rather than making money quickly.
‘Sikbusim’ (食 + pride) provides motivation for eating according to personal taste. Unlike in the past when ‘picky eating’ was criticized, recently there is a growing atmosphere of expressing individuality and taste and bonding with like-minded people. Like the MBTI personality test, eating habits are also categorized. Examples include ‘Daesikjwa’ (big eater), ‘Sosikjwa’ (small eater), ‘Maepjjili’ (someone who can’t handle spicy food), and ‘Maepchikwang-i’ (someone who loves spicy food).
This trend also connects with flaunting knowledge about food. Instead of places anyone can visit if they have money, places requiring rare culinary insight are gaining attention. Asking "Do you know this? Have you been there?" acts as a source of showing off. Various restaurants specializing only in cheese, French-style sandwiches called ‘Jambon Beurre,’ or dining spaces themed around green tea or kimchi are popular. To maximize the desire to show off, some places operate without signs and prohibit any online mentions, allowing only those ‘in the know’ to visit. The desire for a ‘restaurant only I know’ spreads by word of mouth.
Ordering secret menu items not listed on the menu also satisfies the ‘only I know’ feeling. The key is to captivate customers by offering special menus tailored to regulars’ tastes. In fact, the ‘Starbucks Double Shot’ has sold over 20 million cups since its 2004 launch despite not being an official menu item. The ‘Ashotchu,’ iced tea with an added shot, is similar. Although now common, these were secret menus known only among insiders until recently. The authors explain, "The ‘secret menu only you and I know’ often functions as a special kindness by its very existence."
The authors carefully analyze contemporary food culture, its context, and reasons for popularity. The book offers readers new opportunities to explore food and provides self-employed business owners with insights into attracting customers.
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Dining Industry Trends in the Republic of Korea Vol 1 | Kim Nando et al. | Moksae | 216 pages | 17,000 won
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