[Insight & Opinion] Walking Through Istanbul, Reflecting on Seoul

[Asia Economy] After presenting at a European academic conference, I stopped by T?rkiye to meet a former student from my time at Seoul National University and also visited Istanbul. Istanbul, a city where the history of multiple civilizations has accumulated, has long been known worldwide as a representative cosmopolitan city. Like Seoul, a city with a long history, there are old areas where historical landscapes can be found, with the peninsula area inside the large fortress built by the Byzantine Empire being a prime example.

Istanbul, which has made great efforts to preserve the historical landscapes and cultural heritage remaining within this fortress, began preservation efforts in the 1950s centered around Hagia Sophia, a symbol of the Byzantine Empire era, and gradually expanded the preservation area. Today, most of the buildings in this area still show traces of residents having lived there, but are mainly used for tourism purposes. Walking a little along the streets, one can find the Kapalı?ar?ı, considered one of the oldest traditional markets in the world. However, passing through the surrounding commercial areas, residential neighborhoods where locals live suddenly appear, continuing densely and with old houses close to the fortress walls.

There are many old houses, including detached houses that have not been properly maintained, apartment buildings that appear to be in relatively good condition, and vacant houses where no one lives. Arabic is often heard in conversations among residents instead of Turkish, and the neighborhood atmosphere feels quite different. This is understandable since Syrian refugees accepted by the government since 2011 mainly live concentrated in this area. On the other hand, due to its convenient location for tourism, there are quite a few small hotels and Airbnbs, so many foreign tourists can also be encountered. The area exudes a strong sense of life.

How would this area be viewed from a Korean perspective? It is hard to avoid the judgment that such a place is being “hollowed out.” Because of this, it will soon become a target for redevelopment or urban regeneration projects. If designated as a redevelopment area, everything will be demolished and replaced with apartments, making the city “cleaner.” Otherwise, this place will be treated as “dead,” and various short-term projects will be carried out annually in new ways as attempts at “regeneration.”

What is Istanbul doing? It repairs or rebuilds old wooden houses to preserve the historical landscape while steadily maintaining and securing residential spaces. Since the area is also at risk of earthquakes, ensuring building safety is urgent. Houses that are severely deteriorated and dangerous are demolished and sometimes used as parking lots. Limited budgets are always a concern. However, so-called large-scale redevelopment is restricted, so the identity of this area is well preserved. Thanks to this, the commercial districts needed by the residents living here are still alive, and even though the population composition has changed, the area can be maintained as a neighborhood where people live rather than just a tourist spot or historic site. There are spaces for tourists as well, but these also help maintain the neighborhood’s vitality.

Seoul also began hanok (traditional Korean house) support projects centered around Bukchon from the early 2000s and gradually expanded the scope to hanoks throughout the city. Thanks to these efforts, new hanoks have increased and many existing hanoks have been renovated. However, Pimakgol has already disappeared, and Euljiro will soon lose its old charm. As a result, Seoul’s historical landscapes have been lost at an astonishingly rapid pace. Is this really the right direction?

Walking through Istanbul’s old streets, which connect various residential and commercial spaces instead of large-scale redevelopment projects, I recalled Seoul’s old streets that are “too clean” or “becoming clean.”

Robert Fauzer, Former Professor at Seoul National University

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