[Jo Yongjun's Journey Manli] Excited by the Deep Blue Sea in Spring, Falling into the Blue Sky in Spring

Gangwon-do Goseong Journey - Spring Drive on Goseong Haeparang-gil by Car

Kensington Beach with blue skies, green sea, and red beach umbrellas exuding the feeling of spring

Kensington Beach with a blue sky, green sea, and a red bus exuding the feeling of spring

The Geojin Coastal Road continues along Dwitjang Beach, famous for its beautiful deep blue sea.

The 137-meter-long marine observatory connecting the beach and Baekseom offers the joy of walking above the sea.

Northernmost Daejin Lighthouse

The scenery of Daejin Port at the northernmost point

Fishermen harvesting seaweed at Dwitjang Beach

On the way to the Unification Observatory, there are Geumgangsan Condo and Machajin Beach.

[Asia Economy, Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] Although the vernal equinox has passed according to the solar calendar, the cold wave is still acting up. Last week’s late cold snap even brought a snowstorm to the mountainous areas of Gangwon Province. Still, the change of seasons cannot be ignored. Snow remains piled up in places, but the softened wind carries a strong scent of spring. We head to Goseong, Gangwon Province. The waves along the coast, having pushed away winter, feel warm and gentle. This journey is along the 'Haepalang-gil,' a trail where you can walk while enjoying the deep blue waves and the scent of spring. The name means a path where you walk with the rising sun and the blue sea of the East Sea as your companions. Starting from Oryukdo in Busan and stretching all the way to the Unification Observatory in Goseong, Gangwon Province, it is the longest trail in South Korea, spanning 750 km. We explored the northernmost section of Goseong (Courses 46 to 50) on the Haepalang-gil. Some might wonder why I say 'ran' instead of 'walked.' Walking is indeed the best way to fully enjoy Haepalang-gil. However, as a necessary measure due to COVID-19, I chose a driving journey to minimize contact with others. The 50 km drive, as much as the walking path, captures the rugged beauty of the East Coast and the heartfelt stories of the coastal people. The harbor bustles with the morning auction calls and the busy hands of fishermen, alive and vibrant. You can leisurely drive along the coastal road where waves hit the rocky shore or stroll on the sparsely populated sandy beaches. And at the trail’s end, the Unification Observatory offers a breathtaking view of the North Korean lands, including Geumgangsan and Haegumgang, as if you could reach out and touch them.

The destination of this spring-seeking drive is Goseong, Gangwon Province. Passing through the Misiryeong Tunnel, the snow-covered Seoraksan and the Baekdudaegan mountain range still convey the essence of winter. As you enter Goseong, large and small beaches and harbors unfold endlessly. The wind coming through the car window feels distinctly different from the wind encountered in Seoraksan.

The beaches along Goseong’s coast are not connected in a straight line. They form a three-shaped coastline along National Route 7. If you were walking, you could stay along the coast without detours, but driving requires the effort of going in and out of the beaches.

Passing Janghang Port in Sokcho, the Goseong section of Course 46 officially begins. Walking courses range from about 10 km to 16 km each, but the driving journey covers a total of about 50 km.

Driving along National Route 7 with the sea as your companion on the right, the first welcoming beach is Kensington Beach, adjacent to the Kensington Resort. What stands out here is the red double-decker bus. Its official name is 'Route Master.' Having roamed London streets for over half a century as a symbol of the UK, the double-decker ceased operation on December 9, 2005. The bus at Kensington Beach is the original historic London double-decker brought here. The greenish sea, blue sky, and red bus create a fantastic harmony. No one can resist snapping a photo in front of this scene.

Leaving the beach and passing Bongpo Port, you encounter Cheongganjeong Pavilion. One of the eight scenic spots of Goseong, Cheongganjeong is charmingly built atop a rocky cliff where the Cheonggan Stream from Seoraksan Valley meets the rolling waves of Manpyeongcheongpa. Estimated to have been built before 1530 (the 15th year of King Jungjong’s reign), the pavilion offers a mesmerizing view where the crashing waves resemble clouds gathering and then vanishing like mist.

After Cheongganjeong, the coastal road along Ayajin Sea leads to Munam Port. Near Munam Port is Neungpadae, a coastal rock formation with strange shapes. Neungpadae is a massive rock group featuring large and small holes called tafoni, giving it a mysterious and diverse appearance.

Passing by pretty-named beaches such as Baekdo, Jajakdo, Sampo, and Bongsudae, you reach Songjiho Lagoon, a habitat for migratory birds. From the five-story-high bird-watching tower, you can observe flocks of birds performing aerial dances. Songjiho is a brackish lagoon that does not freeze easily in winter and offers abundant food, making it a great resting place for migratory birds.

After Songjiho, at Gonghyeonjin Beach, you should first find Seumutgae Rock connected to the breakwater north of the harbor. Known as Opbawi among locals, it is a famous sunrise spot. The sunrise rising between the long rocky Seumutgae Rocks is well-known among photographers.

The further north you go, the quieter and more charming the road becomes. The coastal road from Geojin Port to Hwajinpo is a must-visit. Although the road is short, the thrill of driving along the rocky shore where waves surge is captivating.

On the Geojin coastal road is Dwitjang Beach, which has no sand. The entire coast is rocky. The sea is so clear that the bottom is visible, and the deep blue waves hold an indescribable charm. Residents busily harvest seaweed such as dolmiyeok on the shallow rocky shore.

Near Dwitjang Beach is Baekseom Island. Interestingly, it looks ordinary most of the time, but at sunrise and sunset, it resembles a reclining Buddha statue. The marine observatory connecting the beach and Baekseom is a popular spot. It is 2.5 meters wide, 137 meters long, and ranges from 4 to 25 meters above sea level. Looking down at the sea on the way to the observatory, the transparent and fine deep blue sea captivates the eyes like glass beads.

At the end of the coastal road lies Hwajinpo, so famous it hardly needs introduction. Along with Songjiho, Hwajinpo is the largest lagoon on the East Coast, with a circumference of 16 km. Thousands of migratory birds and swans fly over the vast reed fields, and the dense pine forest is outstanding. It is home to the former residences of President Rhee Syngman, Vice President Lee Ki-bung, and North Korean leader Kim Il-sung.

The course starting from the Marine Museum, passing the Rhee Syngman Memorial Hall, and circling Hwajinpo along the waterfront is perfect for a drive or a stroll.

In the distance, you begin to see Daejin Port and Daejin Lighthouse, the northernmost port and lighthouse in South Korea. The lined-up boats nod with the waves under the sunlight, and seagulls leisurely flutter between the docked fishing boats.

Daejin Lighthouse, unlike others, evokes feelings of division, hostility, and tension rather than romance. Built in 1973, although nowadays boats cross from Daejin northward over Machajin to Jejin, during the most intense period of North-South conflict right after the Yushin Constitution was declared, Daejin Lighthouse marked the northern limit line for fishing boats.

Passing Daejin Port and heading north, you reach Machajin Beach, where the Geumgangsan Condo is located. The condo symbolizes Geumgangsan tourism but now feels quiet since travel has been halted.

The road continuing north along the sea ends at Myeongpa Beach. This open northernmost beach is worth visiting just for its symbolic status as the last beach at the northern tip. The beach is heavily guarded with multiple layers of barbed wire and warning signs, creating a strict atmosphere.

If you have come this far, the Goseong Unification Observatory, the last course of Haepalang-gil, is nearby. Looking through the telescope installed at the observatory, you can see North Korea’s Geumgangsan, feeling the pain of the divided homeland. The silver shimmering waves dance harmoniously with the last peak of Geumgangsan, Guseonbong, and Haegumgang, painting a picturesque scene.

Goseong = Written and photographed by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the metropolitan area, pass Inje and exit the Misiryeong Tunnel, then head north from Sokcho. Conversely, if coming down south from the Unification Observatory, it is more convenient to go over Jinburyeong from Inje.

△ Attractions = Wangok Village is a clan village of the Gangneung Choi and Gangneung Ham families, preserving northern-style traditional houses. There are places offering lodging experiences and traditional Korean sweets like Hangwa. The northernmost temple in Korea, Geonbongsa, as well as the DMZ Museum and Hwaamsa Temple, are also located here.

△ Food = Dochi Tang (spiny sea cucumber soup), Mulhoe (cold raw fish soup), and Makguksu (buckwheat noodles) are famous. Mulhoe is well-known at Gajin Port’s fresh fish center and Geojin Port. It is made by mixing freshly caught seasonal fish with vegetables, spicy vinegar sauce, and ice. Some places add sea squirts, sea cucumbers, sea urchins, and conchs. Makguksu, made from buckwheat noodles served cold in dongchimi (radish water kimchi) broth, is a delicacy enjoyed year-round.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.