[Korea Route] 'Bukhansanseong Haenggung'... The 'Cry of the Monarch' Forced to the Center of Power Struggles

Published 09 Jan.2022 10:28(KST)

Defense Measures and Refuge to Protect the Capital from External Invasion, Bukhansanseong
Haenggung Filled with a Son's Longing for His Father King
Goyang Bukhansanseong Gwansonseoji and Sangchangji Designated as 'Gyeonggi-do Monuments'

[Asia Economy Reporter Ra Young-cheol] Bukhansan is the tallest and most majestic mountain among the mountains near Seoul. It is considered one of the Five Great Mountains (Oak, 五嶽) along with Baekdusan, Jirisan, Geumgangsan, and Myohangsan.

Located on the border of northwest Seoul and Goyang and Yangju cities in Gyeonggi Province, it features dozens of peaks ranging from 400m to 800m along its ridges, including the highest peak Baegundae (836.5m).

The mountain peaks form massive rock formations and steep rocky cliffs, with many scenic rock peaks such as Mangyeongdae, Wonhyodae, Soyodae, Yeongchwibong, Nojeokbong, and Insu-bong.

These peaks come together to form a "great mountain," and the rugged ridges and cliffs make Bukhansan a fortress and a natural stronghold.

There are also valleys with spectacular scenery called Junghung-dong, Ongnyu-dong, and Eunseon-dong in the deep valleys.

Location of Gwansunso within Bukhansanseong Fortress [Donggukyeodo early 19th century, Gyujanggak Institute for Korean Studies]

■ Bukhansanseong Fortress 'Haenggung (행궁)'

During the Joseon Dynasty, after experiencing the Imjin War and the Manchu invasions, there was a need for a last stronghold to protect the royal family. In 1711 (the 37th year of King Sukjong's reign), a fortress was built on Bukhansan.

The following year, in 1712, a 'Haenggung (행궁)'?a temporary palace where the king could stay during evacuation?was constructed within the fortress.

Although there is also a Haenggung in Namhansanseong, it was considered vulnerable because if the Han River port fell into enemy hands, defense would be helpless.

The term 'Haenggung' literally means a temporary palace where the king travels and stays, but the Haenggung in Bukhansanseong was built more as a refuge palace.

Records indicate that it did not include Jongmyo (royal ancestral shrine) and Sajik (state shrine), which symbolize the royal family. For reference, the Haenggung in Namhansanseong includes Jwajeon and Ujil, which can substitute for the functions of Jongmyo and Sajik.

Goyang Bukhansanseong Gwansunso and Sangchangji [Father Norbert Weber and German Consul Dr. Kruger and party, St. Benedict Waegwan Monastery collection. 1911.6.5]

The Bukhansanseong Haenggung was designed with the outer hall (oejeon), where the king conducted state affairs with his officials, in front, and the inner hall (naejeon), where the king and the royal family lived, at the back. The buildings were surrounded by walls, reflecting the traditional palace architectural style.

The complex consisted of a total of 124 rooms: 28 rooms in the inner hall, 28 rooms in the outer hall, and 68 rooms in auxiliary buildings.

The Haenggung was managed by one Gwansungjang (관성장), an official belonging to the Gyeongrichung (經理廳), the government office established in 1712 to manage the fortress. Two Haenggung soldiers from the Gwansungso (管城所) were responsible for the vertical management of the Haenggung.

Over time, a Pogak (譜閣), a repository for royal genealogies, was established in Bukhansan Haenggung. By the reign of King Gojong, it was used as a historical archive (sago), storing important items such as the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, royal seals, royal documents, and Uigwe (royal protocols).

Thus, Bukhansan Haenggung served as a refuge to protect the last pride of the Joseon royal family.

North Korea also includes Inseongso and Sangchang locations (1745) [Goyang-si]

■ Ending a 37-year Debate

During King Sukjong's reign (1661?1720, reign: 1674?1720), Joseon faced continuous threats from foreign invasions. National defense and territorial protection were the most pressing issues.

Japanese intruders disturbed the territory of Ulleungdo, and the Qing Dynasty pressured to clearly define the northern border. Therefore, Joseon needed to strengthen its military power and prepare defense measures and refuges to protect the capital from foreign invasions.

In early February 1711, King Sukjong finally made a decisive decision, putting an end to the 37-year-long debate over the construction of Bukhansanseong, which had started in his first year on the throne.

The king said: "The capital is vast and difficult to defend, Namhansanseong is hard to cross the ferry, and Ganghwado is vulnerable to thieves invading by sea and cannot be trusted once the ice melts. Only Bukhansan is very close, and I intend to enter and defend it with the people. Measures such as preparing military provisions will not be difficult unlike those distant places. If we only wait for consensus, when will we ever achieve this?" - 『Annals of King Sukjong』 Volume 50, 37th year of Sukjong (1711), February 5 -

Sukjong's Calligraphy (Seven-character Poem) [Collection of Gyeonggi Provincial Museum]

Once the decision to build the fortress was made, construction proceeded rapidly. Construction began in April 1711 and was completed by October of the same year. By April 1712, when King Sukjong visited Bukhansanseong with Prince Yeoning (later King Yeongjo), the Haenggung and military facilities were under construction.

After inspecting the water gate, a drainage facility, Sukjong proceeded to visit the Haenggung.

"Reaching the Haenggung, ten ri from the capital, the tall and rugged Shidanbong (柴丹峯) lies directly to the east. Clouds still linger over the peak of Nojeokbong (露積峯), and mist shrouds Baegundae (白雲臺) above." - King Sukjong's poem "Bukhansanseong" 『Yeolseong Eoje』

After leaving the Haenggung, Sukjong stood silently at Dongjangdae (East Command Post), overlooking the fortress surrounded by ridges and valleys.

As the sun set and the fortress shadows lengthened, having spent much time at the fortress, Sukjong hurried back to the palace.

Portrait of King Yeongjo of Joseon [National Palace Museum of Korea]

■ The Monarch's Tears

King Yeongjo (1694?1776, reign: 1724?1776) was a strong king who mediated the opinions of powerful ministers and factional struggles, revived the economy, and established the foundation of cultural Joseon through reforms. He was a resolute monarch who pursued policies cautiously yet boldly.

Records say that Yeongjo visited Bukhansanseong Haenggung and cried in front of his officials.

In August 1760, Yeongjo was at the outer hall of Bukhansanseong Haenggung, seemingly searching for traces of his predecessor, and repeatedly choked back tears while touching the floor mat (pojin, 鋪陳) for a long time.

At that moment, feeling the warmth of his late father, Yeongjo could not control his overwhelming emotions.

The mat was the same one King Sukjong had sat on 48 years earlier (1712) when he visited this Haenggung. The ministers watching Yeongjo were also solemn.

Why was Yeongjo so moved to tears?

When Yeongjo, then called Prince Yeoning, visited this Haenggung as a general (chonggwan, 摠管) serving his father King Sukjong, he was nineteen years old.

To Yeongjo, King Sukjong was both father and mentor. During his time as Prince Yeoning, he learned the vision and governance skills necessary to establish a king-centered order and build a strong nation by observing his father's actions.

Historical records state that Yeongjo's tears were due to his longing for the late king.

Goyang Gwansung Soji and Sangchangji Formation [Goyang-si]

It is also said that the tears were due to memories of the desperate and painful days during his time as Prince Yeoning.

Although Prince Yeoning was a royal prince, he was also the son of Sukbin Choi (淑嬪崔氏, 1670?1718), a palace maid who was treated as a servant.

Because of subtle disdain and the life-threatening struggle for succession, the throne he ascended was hard-won, deepening his longing for his father.

The crown prince succeeding King Sukjong was already designated as Heebin Jang (禧嬪張氏, 1659?1701)'s son, but factional struggles related to succession continued.

As Yeongjo aged, he was pushed to the center of power struggles and had to fight for survival to become the next monarch.

Three years before his death, King Sukjong entrusted Yeongjo's future, which became a pretext for fierce power struggles even after King Gyeongjong (1688?1724, reign: 1720?1724) ascended the throne without an heir.

Ultimately, Yeongjo survived and ascended the throne after Gyeongjong died without an heir after four years of reign.

After 36 years as king, Yeongjo returned to Bukhansan, the fortress he had visited with his father.

Having calmed his sorrow, Yeongjo ordered that the floor mat of the late king be stored in a chest and proceeded to manage fortress affairs, including fortress maintenance and military grain storage.

Yeongjo returned as a strong monarch and is recorded as a powerful king succeeding Sukjong in Joseon history.

Designation of Goyang Bukhansanseong Gwansunsoji and Sangchangji as Gyeonggi-do Monument No. 229 [Materials from the Director of the Institute of Oriental Culture, Gakushuin University, Japan]

■ Designated as a 'Gyeonggi Province Monument'

The 'Goyang Bukhansanseong Gwansungso Site and Sangchangji' located within Bukhansanseong in Deogyang-gu, Goyang City, was designated as Gyeonggi Province Monument No. 229 in December last year.

The 'Goyang Bukhansanseong Gwansungso Site and Sangchangji' is a central government office established in 1712 (the 38th year of King Sukjong's reign), the year after Bukhansanseong was built. It was staffed by a Gwansungjang (관성장) who was responsible for managing and operating the fortress, Haenggung, the three military camps (Hunryeondogam, Geumwiyeong, Eoyeongcheong), warehouses (Hojogchang, Sangchang, Jungchang, Hachang), and the Seungyeong temple (僧營寺刹).

It is located near the national historic site 'Bukhansanseong Haenggung Site.'

Until recently, it had not been preserved or managed under the Cultural Heritage Protection Act, but in June 2020, through a public contest project, it received 100% national funding from the Cultural Heritage Administration to conduct a preliminary archaeological survey of the site.

Daechungteo South Side Foundation Row (2020 Test Excavation) [Goyang-si]

In March last year, to establish a more systematic preservation, management, and utilization policy, the designation as a cultural heritage site by Gyeonggi Province was pursued, and it was newly designated as a monument within about eight months.

Kim Su-hyun, a curator at Goyang City, said, "The Goyang Bukhansanseong Gwansungso Site and Sangchangji is the only military camp site (government office and warehouse site) with its original form remaining, as there are no remains of the three military camps in Hanyang (Seoul), the capital of Joseon. It is a historically and academically very important site and will be useful as evidence proving the integrity of the heritage related to the UNESCO World Heritage listing of Bukhansanseong."