[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Early Spring Ink Painting... Gracefully Flowing Ninety-Nine Curved Ink Lines

Yangyang Guryongryeong Drive Journey - Sending Off the Last Snow Country of the Pure White Mureungdowon~

Guryongryeong, a rugged pass in the Baekdudaegan mountain range, is quiet. Except during the holiday season, it is rare to see even a single car. It is an ideal destination for a drive that complies with social distancing measures due to COVID-19. Last weekend, after heavy snowfall, the road to Guryongryeong through the deep mountains remained just as it is.

The view looking toward Guryongnyeong from Yangyang

Guryongryeong Old Road Covered in Heavy Snow

Snow-covered Seorak Beach

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] Spring news keeps coming from the south. After the plum blossoms and cornelian cherries, cherry blossoms have also started to bloom. However, a heavy snow warning was issued in Yeongdong last weekend. It was forecasted that more than 15 cm of snow would fall in the mountainous areas. This is likely the last snowfall of this winter. I spread out a map and took a look. Certain conditions had to be met. First, due to COVID-19, fewer people should be visiting, and there should be the joy of driving. Since we are going to see snow, of course, there must be snow. I packed my bags and set out. The destination was Guryongryeong (1,013m) on National Route 56, connecting Hongcheon and Yangyang. It is a mountain pass linking Gangwon’s Yeongseo and Yeongdong regions. While Daegwallyeong, Hangyeryeong, Misiryeong, and Jinburyeong are well known, many people are unfamiliar with Guryongryeong. It is a rugged pass along the Baekdudaegan mountain range. The steep and rough road is said to resemble a dragon winding its way up, hence the name Guryong (meaning "Nine Dragons"). Since the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway was built, traffic has been minimal. You can freely enjoy the winter of early spring by car without worrying about COVID-19. The winding mountain road with zigzag curves, uphill and downhill sections, offers a snowy landscape like no other. Once you get past the pass, the sea of Yangyang unfolds right before your eyes.

Guryongryeong is a mountain pass on the border between Myeonggae-ri, Naemyeon, Hongcheon County, and Galcheon-ri, Seomyeon, Yangyang County. It is a major pass connecting Odaesan and Seoraksan Mountains and is part of the Baekdudaegan ridge. Since the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway was built, traffic on Guryongryeong has decreased, making it a quiet place. Thanks to this, you can enjoy a leisurely drive. Even if you don’t seek snowy landscapes, it is perfect for a relaxed drive in spring or autumn. The road winds around the mountainsides but is more gentle than rugged.

The easiest way to cross Guryongryeong is to exit Naechon IC on the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, follow the waterway of Naechoncheon, and then ascend National Route 56. Alternatively, you can exit at Inje IC, pass through Sangnam-myeon, drive along Naerincheon, and turn left at Wondang Samgeori to take National Route 56 over Guryongryeong. This route allows you to enjoy scenic views of valleys like Saldun Valley along the Naerincheon stream beside the local road.

I chose the latter route. I drove slowly along the quiet country road. Snow still piled up along the roadside from the recent heavy snowfall. I passed Sambong Natural Recreation Forest and the remote villages of Saldun and Myeonggae-ri. As the altitude gradually increased, snow began to fall. Naturally, my driving shifted to slow mode. The snow-covered pass was enveloped in mist. The thrill of driving up Guryongryeong has a unique excitement not found on other mountain passes.

I entered the white winter landscape along the road. After circling one mountain, the scenery of the next mountain appeared like a gateway to a snowy country, surrounded by layers of mountains.

It is a bit unfortunate that there are no separate observatories or parking spaces along the road, so you have to enjoy the scenery while driving. At the summit of Guryongryeong, there is the Baekdudaegan Visitor Center.

I parked at the summit and looked around. The Baekdudaegan Guryongryeong marker stone stood tall. The surrounding trees were densely covered with snow. Although the snowy view from here is limited, it was enough to feel the winter atmosphere of a spring day, even if just for a moment.

Descending toward Yangyang, clouds thickened along the winding mountain road. Snowstorms swept across the ridge repeatedly. Trees stood weakly bearing the snow hardened by the wind’s direction. From afar, it looked like a monochrome ink painting.

Near the summit of Guryongryeong is the old Guryongryeong trail. It connects Myeonggae-ri in Hongcheon to Galcheon-ri in Yangyang, but the Myeonggae-ri side is covered by forest, making the path untraceable. To take the old trail, it is easier to descend from the summit toward Galcheon-ri. Near the summit, you must find the Baekdudaegan trail maintained with wooden stairs. I wanted to walk the old trail briefly, but it was closed due to the recent heavy snowfall. It would be nice to walk the old trail on a warm spring day.

The snowfall intensified. Snowplows were working hard, going back and forth along the pass. Just a little way down from the summit toward Yangyang is a less frequented spot: Galcheon Mineral Spring in Galcheon-ri. It is considered the best mineral spring with a metallic iron taste. Unlike other springs by the roadside, you have to walk about 800 meters along a mountain path to reach it. Untouched by human hands, it retains the old water taste and atmosphere.

Another notable spot in Galcheon-ri is the wooden Galcheon Branch of Hyeonseo Elementary School. Although it has been closed, the quaint and simple mountain village school scenery creates a unique charm.

Along National Route 56, there are many deep valleys. Micheongol Valley is the most representative. There was once a large temple in this valley, and it is said that so many monks lived there that when they washed rice to prepare meals, the rice water covered the valley, hence the name Micheongol, using the character for rice (米). The 7 km-long Micheongol Valley, with its pristine forest and clear water, is lined with waterfalls and bizarre rock formations. At the entrance of Micheongol Valley lies the site of Seonrimwon Temple, founded during the reign of King Beopheung of Silla and abandoned in the late Goryeo period. Treasure-level cultural assets such as stone lanterns, a three-story stone pagoda, the Honggak Seonsa stele, and stupas remain there.

Besides these, other valleys known for their clear and beautiful water, such as Eoseongjeon Valley, Myeonggae-ri Valley, Gongsujeon Valley, and Beopsuchi Valley, all follow along National Route 56.

Passing Micheongol, Haedam Village, and Songcheon Rice Cake Village, you soon reach Yangyang IC. National Route 56 ends just before Yangyang IC. The East Sea is nearby. On a whim, I drove to the winter sea. The well-known Naksansa Temple and Naksan Beach were right in front of me. The snowy sea was calm. The white sandy beach, covered entirely in white, was soft like a snow cake without a single footprint.

Hongcheon·Yangyang = Written and photographed by travel specialist Jo Yongjun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△How to get there= The easiest way is to take the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, exit at Inje Naechon IC, follow the waterway of Naechoncheon, and then take National Route 56 toward Guryongryeong and Yangyang.

△Food= There are no notable eateries in the area. However, if you go down Guryongryeong toward Yangyang, you will find Haedam Makguksu (photo) in Haedam Village. The noodles have a high buckwheat content, making them break easily, but the savory taste and nutty buckwheat aroma are excellent. Beombu Makguksu near Yangyang IC is also well known.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.