[Asia Liquor Hub]③Korean Bars on the Global Stage: "Alcohol Is Cultural Heritage... Liquor Tax Reform Needed"

Interview with Yoon Younghwi, Owner-Bartender of Bar Cham
Invited to the Mixology Party at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair
Bar Cham Ranks 6th in This Year's Asia's 50 Best Bars

Yoon Younghwi, co-owner and bartender of Bar Cham, which ranked 6th in this year's Asia's 50 Best Bars, was invited to the Mixology Party, a side event of the 17th Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair held from November 6 to 8. Selected as Korea's representative, he emphasized on site that "tax rationalization and expanded exchanges will determine the next leap for Korea's alcoholic beverage industry."

Asia's 50 Best Bars is one of the most prestigious awards in the beverage industry, hosted and selected by William Reed, a UK-based global media group specializing in food, beverage, and hospitality. The award evaluates the best bars and bartender cultures in Asia and serves as a key benchmark for the competitiveness of the bar and beverage industry.

Co-owner and bartender Yoon Younghwi, CEO of Bar Cham [Photo by Koo Eunmo]

At the event, Yoon introduced the cocktail "Beeterman," a name combining "Bee" and "Bitter." Beeterman is crafted using Korean gin "Jeongwon" and Scotch whisky as its base, blended with Gimpo acacia honey fermented liquor, hops, lemon, and bitters. He said, "I wanted to showcase the aroma and story of Korean ingredients abroad," adding, "Bar Cham's identity lies in capturing the essence of Korea in a single cocktail."

Bar Cham opened in 2018 after renovating a traditional hanok in Seochon, Jongno-gu, Seoul. As its name suggests, the interior features oak materials that create a warm atmosphere. There is no flashy sign, nor is it a speakeasy with a hidden entrance. The concept is an "open bar" where anyone can walk in. Yoon said, "The experience of drinking a cocktail made with Korean ingredients in a hanok becomes a culture in itself," adding, "I want to expand that experience to the world."

Interior view of Bar Cham located in Seochon, Jongno-gu, Seoul. [Photo by Bar Cham]

After majoring in tourism, Yoon began his career as a bartender at the Fullerton Bay Hotel in Singapore in 2014. He then worked for six years at Charles H. in Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, learning the global hotel bar system, and joined Bar Cham in 2021, becoming co-CEO last year. Bar Cham, which ranked 20th in Asia's 50 Best Bars last year, climbed to 6th place this year, and, in addition to Bar Cham, three other Korean establishments made it into the top 50.

He attributes the growth of Korean bars to "generational continuity." Yoon explained, "The senior generation built connections with the world, and the younger generation expanded those doors through international competitions and collaborations." As a result of exchanges built up over generations, the world is now paying attention to Korea's sensibility and refined craftsmanship.

However, there are still challenges behind the growth. Yoon first pointed to the liquor tax system. He said, "The liquor tax burden in Korea is extremely high," explaining, "Due to the high tax rates on distilled spirits like whisky, cocktail prices increase and consumer accessibility declines." Under the current liquor tax law, distilled spirits are subject to a 72% liquor tax, plus an education tax of 30% of the liquor tax, and a 10% value-added tax. He noted, "Most of the ingredients used in bars are imported liquors, and the heavy tax burden makes bars seem like a luxury to consumers. The industry is also hit first when the economy worsens." He argued that alcohol should be viewed not just as a luxury item, but as a cultural consumer good.

He also cited the language barrier as another obstacle. "Korean bartenders' skills are already world-class, but if language is a barrier, both collaboration and exchange are limited," he said. "Ultimately, mastering a foreign language is essential to make a name on the global stage."

On the 8th, Yoon Younghwi, owner bartender of Bar Cham, was making cocktails at the Mixology Party of the 17th Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair.
[Photo by Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC)]

The trend Yoon is focusing on lately is "locality." He said, "We are in an era where each country's food culture and fermentation techniques are interpreted in the language of beverages. Korea has a strong heritage of fermentation, and if we modernize these ingredients, we can create flavors that are impossible to replicate anywhere else in the world." In fact, he has been steadily pursuing the goal of "creating global experiences with Korean ingredients." Bar Cham reinterprets not only soju and Makgeolli but also traditional liquors from regional masters, honey, and herbal ingredients into cocktails. He believes that a single drink can tell the story of a region.

He said, "The meaning of the moment is more important than the act of drinking itself," adding, "I focus on helping guests discover new stories in a glass and making sure that time feels truly happy for them."