Makgeolli Reflecting the Sorrows of Common People Designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage

Including the kneading process as well as related livelihoods, rituals, and traditional customs
"The first case of intangible cultural heritage designated based on public proposal"

Makgeolli [Photo by Cultural Heritage Administration]

Makgeolli, which contains the sorrows and joys of common people, is being managed at the national level.

On the 15th, the Cultural Heritage Administration announced that 'Makgeolli Brewing' has been designated as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. The designation includes not only the process of brewing Makgeolli but also related livelihoods, rituals, and traditional customs. The basis for this designation includes six factors: ▲long history and transmission/enjoyment throughout the Korean Peninsula ▲brewing methods confirmed in ancient texts from the Three Kingdoms period ▲academic research materials from food nutrition, folklore, and history ▲expansion into various cultures such as farming songs, proverbs, and literary works ▲distinctive characteristics formed around breweries nationwide ▲transmission and maintenance of brewing methods through various transmission communities. However, since it is enjoyed and transmitted by the entire nation, no specific holders or holder groups were recognized, unlike 'Kimchi Making.' An official explained, "This is the first case of a National Intangible Cultural Heritage designated through public proposals such as 'Finding Hidden Intangible Heritage' and 'People's Suggestions' on the National Petition System."

Rice porridge and nuruk
[Photo by National Folk Museum of Korea]

Makgeolli is presumed to have existed since the agrarian society because it is brewed from grains such as non-glutinous rice, glutinous rice, and barley. Its existence is confirmed in historical records such as the Samguk Sagi, Samguk Yusa, Mion, Jiju, and Ryoe. During the Goryeo Dynasty, Lee Gyubo wrote about 'Baekju (white liquor)' in the Dongguk Isanggukjip. The Hangul spellings 'Mokgeolli' and 'Makgeolni' appear in Joseon Dynasty works such as Chunhyangjeon and Gwangjaemulbo. Brewing methods are also recorded in cookbooks like Gyuhapchongseo and Eumsikdimibang.

Rice Makgeolli is made by fermenting steamed rice (cooked to a firm and chewy texture), nuruk (fermentation starter), and water for several days, then straining the mixture. The word 'Mak' means 'roughly' or 'quickly,' and 'Geolli' means 'to strain.' It means 'roughly and quickly strained liquor.' It is a pure Korean word, and the name reflects the brewing method and characteristics of the liquor.

Sangsan Table Setting for Namhaean Byeolsingut Ritual in Susan Village, Dongbu-myeon, Geoje-si, Gyeongnam [Photo by National Folk Museum of Korea]

The brewing method is not very difficult. Its affordability quickly established it as a drink for common people. Especially, farmers recognized it as Nongju (farmers' liquor) to relieve sweat and thirst during busy farming seasons. Makgeolli was also an essential part of village community livelihoods, rituals, and celebrations. Even today, it is offered as sacred liquor (Sinju) at ceremonies such as completion ceremonies, car rituals, and opening ceremonies.

Until the Joseon Dynasty, Makgeolli was a fermented food made directly at home. Due to national policies such as those by Juse Ryeong (1916), it became common to consume brewery-made Makgeolli instead of home-brewed liquor (Gayangju). However, many households still maintain their unique taste. Home brewing has been increasing again since 1995 when home brewing for personal consumption was re-permitted.

Kim Hong-do 'Danwon Pungsokdo Album Tavern'
[Photo by National Museum of Korea]

The Cultural Heritage Administration will hold a commemorative event for the intangible cultural heritage designation on the afternoon of the 26th at Hwaseong Haenggung Palace in Suwon. The Korea Makgeolli Association and the Korea Takyakju Brewing Central Association will also hold a two-day tour program at twenty-six breweries starting on the 26th. For participation applications and detailed information, please refer to the 'K-Intangible Heritage Companion' Instagram.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.