Cosmecca Korea Develops World's First Water-Based Sunscreen

Joint Research with Seoul National University of Science and Technology
Application of Oil-Free Water-in-Water Emulsion Structure
Higher SPF Achieved Compared to Conventional Formulations... Published in International Journal

Cosmecca Korea, a global OGM (Original Global Manufacturing) company specializing in cosmetics, has identified the operating mechanism of a next-generation water-based sunscreen formulation.

On March 17, Cosmecca Korea announced that, through a joint research project with Seoul National University of Science and Technology, it had analyzed a fully water-based sunscreen formulation technology, which differs from the conventional water-oil emulsion method. The research findings were published in the international chemical engineering journal "Chemical Engineering Journal" (Impact Factor: 13.2).

Currently, most sunscreens are manufactured using an emulsion method that mixes water and oil. However, this process has been criticized for environmental concerns due to the use of oil and surfactants, as well as limitations related to user experience such as greasiness, stickiness, and eye irritation.

To address these issues, the research team applied a "W/W (water-in-water) emulsion" structure to the sunscreen formulation. This technology utilizes the principle of an aqueous two-phase system (ATPS), where two different types of water-soluble polymers form separated phases within water.

This formulation is characterized by its ability to secure formulation stability and UV protection without the use of oil. After being applied to the skin, a network-like film forms as moisture evaporates, and the UV-blocking ingredients are evenly distributed across the skin surface.

This film structure increases the uniformity of the UV protection layer, thereby improving absorption efficiency. Experimental results showed that, compared to a typical aqueous dispersion using the same ingredients and concentrations, this new formulation achieved a higher sun protection factor (SPF) and delivered a more even protective effect across the entire skin surface.

The research team explained that these results demonstrate how UV protection performance can vary not only depending on the type and amount of ingredients, but also on the arrangement and structure of components within the formulation. Even when using the same UV-blocking agents, improving the uniformity of the film structure can enhance protection efficiency.

This study was also selected for "Hanbitsa (People who make Korea shine)" by the Biological Research Information Center (BRIC).

Taehoon Kim, Head of R&D at Cosmecca Korea, stated, "Recently, sunscreen research has been advancing toward maximizing effectiveness with minimal UV-blocking agents. The dispersion technology and uniform film formation mechanism confirmed in this study can be leveraged for the development of next-generation sun care products."