"Unable to Cover Costs Due to High Prices" Will Fukuoka's Famous Tonkotsu Ramen Disappear?

In Fukuoka, the birthplace of Tonkotsu ramen, the number of new Tonkotsu ramen shop openings has sharply declined. The reason is the inability to cope with the rising cost of living.

On the 26th, the Japanese magazine President Online reported that an analysis of new ramen shop openings in Fukuoka showed that recently, the number of non-Tonkotsu ramen shops, such as soy sauce and salt ramen, has significantly increased rather than Tonkotsu ramen shops.

Ramen from the Fukuoka tonkotsu ramen franchise 'Hakata Issou'. (Photo by Hakata Issou)

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According to new opening data in Fukuoka Prefecture posted on the "Ramen Database," among 62 ramen shops that opened between the end of July last year and the 17th of this month, 24 were Tonkotsu shops, and 38 were non-Tonkotsu shops. This reversal phenomenon began in 2019, and in 2022, the survey of new ramen shop openings in Fukuoka Prefecture showed Tonkotsu accounted for 40%, while non-Tonkotsu types made up 60%.

Experts analyzed that the background of this unusual trend is the rising cost of living. Rikiya Yamaji, a food columnist, cited three reasons, saying, "It is becoming increasingly difficult for new entrants to compete with Tonkotsu ramen."

The first reason is cost. The manufacturing cost of Tonkotsu ramen is higher than other ramen types. The pork bones used as ramen ingredients must be boiled for a long time over high heat to extract the broth. Considering the gas fees, labor costs, ingredient costs, and food waste disposal fees involved, the cost is higher than other ramen. Mr. Yamaji explained, "In the case of soy sauce ramen, which uses chicken bones for broth, a small amount of bones can be simmered over low heat for a short time, making it much cheaper in terms of cost."

The process of boiling pork bones to make tonkotsu ramen broth. (Photo by Hakata Issou)

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Masahito Yamada, founder of the famous Fukuoka Tonkotsu ramen franchise "Hakata Issou," said, "During operation, the broth in three pots is continuously boiled over high heat, and domestic pork skull and backbones are prepared and boiled for a long time until the bones become soft." He added, "Water is continuously poured to cool the bottom of the pots to prevent deformation, and special gas stoves equipped with heat efficiency maintenance facilities are used. Not only gas fees but also water bills cannot be ignored."

However, it is also difficult to raise prices for Tonkotsu ramen. This is because Tonkotsu ramen has an image of being cheaper than other ramen. In Japan, there is a "1000 yen wall," meaning a bowl of ramen should not exceed 1000 yen (8,850 KRW), but in Fukuoka, Tonkotsu ramen strongly carries a cheap image, priced around 500 to 600 yen (4,400 to 5,300 KRW). Tonkotsu ramen uses thinner noodles than others, so consumers perceive the portion size as smaller than other ramen. Therefore, Tonkotsu ramen is considered a snack eaten to sober up after drinking or when slightly hungry, and raising prices risks losing customers.

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There is also the issue of acquiring new customers. Since Fukuoka is the birthplace of Tonkotsu ramen, there are already well-established regular shops that people have frequented for a long time. Because of this, even if new players enter the market, competition is tough as they must work hard to secure new customers.

However, the consensus is that this ramen shift does not mean Tonkotsu ramen shops are on the brink of mass closures. President Online stated, "With more ramen options available, the landscape is beginning to change, and there may be places where cutthroat competition occurs," adding, "Considering the ramen pride of Fukuoka people, it is highly likely that Tonkotsu ramen and non-Tonkotsu ramen will coexist."

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