Okchundang (left) and Palbodang. Moran Buddhist Supplies homepage

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There are colorful confections that always appear on the ancestral ritual table during holidays. On larger tables, these sweets are often stacked like a tower, creating a spectacular display. These confections are called Okchundang and Palbodang, 'royal confections' made with sugar and natural coloring. It is estimated that they have been produced on the Korean Peninsula for at least several centuries, and they were rare treats that only appeared at royal banquets held for guests at the palace.

Okchundang is a round, flat confection with a reddish hue, while Palbodang is a small, flower-shaped sweet coated in a single color. Both are decorative confections that appear at major events such as ancestral rites, memorial services, and first birthday celebrations.

As suggested by the character 'dang' (meaning sugar or candy) in their names, both have a sweet taste. Traditionally made Okchundang and Palbodang are flavored with rice flour, syrup, and grain syrup, while the modern versions are made by melting sugar and pouring it into molds to set. Natural coloring is added using ingredients like gardenia or mint, resulting in their vibrant hues.

The snack inside the red circle is Okchundang. Korean Studies Advancement Center

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Okchundang and Palbodang are confections with a history spanning at least several centuries. According to sources such as 'Korean History Net,' the name Okchundang already appeared in the late Joseon Dynasty. Palace records from the 19th year of King Jeongjo's reign (1795) mention a tower of Okchundang stacked to a height of 6 chi (about 18 cm) on a banquet table.

Both Okchundang and Palbodang were strictly royal foods. According to an article contributed by Han Bokryeo of the Royal Cuisine Research Institute to the Cultural Heritage Administration, Okchundang and Palbodang were prepared for the 'Gobaesang.' The Gobaesang was a grand banquet table set with 40 to 70 side dishes, held during royal festivities in the Joseon Dynasty to wish for the king's longevity.

The pinnacle of the elevated table setting is the tower-shaped food called 'Goimsae.' It is made by stacking Okchundang or Palbodang 10 to 20 cm high. At this time, the unique colors of Okchundang and Palbodang blend together to create an intricate pattern, and enjoying this spectacle was said to be one of the pleasures of the elevated table setting. The task of creating the Goimsae with Okchundang and Palbodang was entrusted to skilled artisans, and one researcher described it as "a proud Korean culinary heritage that has elevated food to an artistic level showcasing craftsmanship."

After the mid-20th century, Okchundang and Palbodang Goimsae began to appear at national events, traditional weddings, 60th birthday celebrations, and large-scale community ancestral rites and memorial services. Regarding how the know-how of royal cuisine was passed down to the public, one researcher speculated, "The foods served at royal banquets were likely shared with noble families after the events," adding, "Noble families would have tasted royal confections and rice cakes and learned the recipes in their own way, which is how it eventually spread to the general public."

Japan Rakugan (left) and Chinese Four-Color Candy. Cake Japan, R-MAN Studio website

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The culture of 'colorful decorative confections made from sugar or syrup' is not unique to the Korean Peninsula. In Japan, there is Rakugan, a sugar art confection that is placed on ritual tables.

Rakugan is also made by mixing grain flour with sugar and syrup, kneading it, and then pressing it into molds to set. It comes in various shapes such as flowers and rectangles. The flavor is simply sweet, and the texture is hard, but its elegant appearance makes it popular for ceremonial use.

In China, there are 'four-color candies' served at wedding banquets. These include square sugar, winter melon candy, tangerine candy, and longan fruit candy, which the bride and groom distribute to guests as gifts as they circulate the banquet hall.